I chilled the wine every so lightly and then I began the tasting process by popping open the cork and pouring myself a small glass.

My first thought was: the wine is corked. But I wasn’t sure. There was definitely something off about it – it stank like brunt I-don’t-know. It smelled borderline horrible but in mouth it had an almost cab franc flavour with heavy tannins and loads of spice. The whole taste and feel was just like really unripe strawberries. It seemed like the nose and mouth didn’t fit. I was going to call it quits but the nerdy side of me took over and so I went online.

I don’t have to tell you that small organic producers are not the most web savvy. But because of my sleuthing skills, I was able to uncover some tasting notes. However, all of them mentioned this big fruity, strawberry, spicy wine. Not quite what was going on in my glass. Except maybe for the strawberry part, but they were certainly not at the same level of maturation!

Finally, and right before I gave up, I found this post, which allowed me to refocus the wine in terms of justifying its coarseness.

"Pourquoi ne pas commencer par le Vin de Jardin 2006, mis en bag in box le jour même. La robe d'un rouge pimpant incite à la débauche. Le nez est une explosion de fruits rouges. La bouche est accueillante, fraîche et gouleyante. La finale un peu dure détonne. Marc m'explique que c'est un effet momentané du SO2 ajouté à la mise. Dans quelques semaines, la fin sera plus aimable..."

And then this one by the winemakers themselves:

"petit bonsoir de la grange aux belles . A propos du tupperwine du 8 avril quelques petit conseil de dégustation . Il est important d'ouvrir le vin de jardin et pink fluid une petite demi heure avant. Et oui il y a beaucoup de gaz carbonique et un peu de réduction sur le vin de jardin ( ce n'est pas filtré , pas levurer , pas chaptaliser , pas coller , il y a simplement des beaux raisins un poil de souffre et beaucoup de plaisir ) a bientôt ça y est la taille est fini et le printemps arrive les 2007 se goute bien"

Reduction… I have heard that word before… I looked up what reduction on a wine was and uncovered that it smells like burnt matches, that it’s sulfuric and that the best way to get rid of it, if entirely possible, is to decant and really aerate the wine.

So that’s what I did with the rest of my wine. And then I saw the strawberries get a bit riper… It remains a “rough” wine, and I was glad to pair it with a light supper of rosette de Lyon and salad. While I would never drink this wine without food, I would drink it again on a hot evening as it became refreshing in its ruggedness.

Overall, it was a great experience. I was slapped with the lesson of “reduction” and learned about a new varietal. I don't know about other people, but I think from time to time, situations like that make for great wine lessons.

A glass was poured and something amazing was revealed...The fizz is light and not palate deadening. The aromas fresh, crisp, with an undertone of citrus but not at all sweet or in contrast, tart. There are also what I would best describe as ephemeral minerals - almost magical because they are so unique. Poiré is classy but grounded. Balance is more than achieved here – it is what makes this product truly spectacular. The best is said to be made in Normandy and with Perry’s pears, and as luck would have it, that’s exactly from where and with what Eric Bordelet’s Poiré Granit is made. Oh, this was turning out to be a good Monday… and with only 3.5% alcohol, as my friend put it, there is no shame is having a lot! And I would add that one could have even more because it's biodynamic.

Unfortunately, this is not a product that can be purchased at the SAQ, yet. In a few months, it will be available at the SAQ Selections, thanks in part to the efforts of Michel Bergeron from Bergeron Les Vins (www.bergerons-les-vins.com). In the meantime, you may quench your thirst for it at Buvette Chez Simone, located at 4869 avenue du Parc (514.750.6577). If you know what’s good for you, you’ll run, not walk, to grab your table on the terrace and indulge… I’ll see you there!

After a discussion with Drew, the coffee specialist, I not only had better insight on what happens before coffee makes it to my cup but also a better appreciation for the hard work it takes to get me a decent cup of joe. With two samples in my bag, I carted them home and only yesterday had a chance to finally brew a batch of the Ethiopian blend Drew suggested.

I don't pretend to be a coffee connoisseur and certainly have a lot to learn, but I do have the capacity to know when something fantastic is present around me.  I use this term because the aromas that filled my home and then my nose and then my mouth and then my soul were unlike anything I've ever tasted. There were subtle sweet strawberry notes with a touch of peppercorn spice to this phenomenal coffee and not a trace of dustiness or earthiness. Whoa and wow - now I get it.  We easily justify the purchase of organic eggs and milk and since we probably have more coffee everyday than both those combined, I can now certainly justify buying more of these beans.

For more information, please check out: www.originscoffee.com

And the picture above is of the roasting machine the use at Origins - a beautiful beast, almost a century old...

Wolf Blass Yellow Label Brut Sparkling ($16.85 at the LCBO)

This fun-time sparkler offered little on the nose but packed a punch in the mouth. Tight and strong streams of bubbles revealed a honey, sour apple taste that finished candy. Very pale yellow, this dry chardonnay based wine has the potential to pair with lots of summertime classics from the BBQ as well as fresh salads on sweltering nights (and lunches, and brunches…)

Sumac Ridge Steller’s Jay Brut (Available in BC, not in QC or even ON)

This light pink BC product was added to the panel as an homage to the host city where the seminar took place. Strawberry lemonade nose and flavours, with its big bubbles it had a creamier and more refined feel in mouth. Yeast notes are present and the abricotine and brioche nuances make it suitable for more substantial snacks of cheese and particular seafood like mussels.

Cordoniu Reserva Raventos Cava Brut ($10.75 at the LCBO)

It wouldn’t be a sparkling tasting without a little Spanish influence in the form of cava. Always refreshing and pronounced, this Iberian native takes the stage for a solo or as a partner to any food. The bubbles are apparent but not particular. The yeast nose is undercut with citrus, something a little herbal and green. In mouth it’s drier than the others, more tart and finishing with a touch of bitterness – perfect to open the palate and the evening festivities.

Moët&Chandon Brut Impérial Champagne (SAQ code: 00453076, $37.00)

Straight up French in its style and approach, this Champagne had a minerality and finesse that make it distinct from the others. Balanced and with almond undertones, it was the clear winner for me. Delicate apple intermingles with flowers and a touch of citrus, all wrapping up in a nice yeast-based but clean finish. Ah, vive la France…

• Nice acidity from the Riesling (check)
• Crisp, with some apple and pear notes (check)
• A nice finish that is a bit tart (check)
• An interesting aspect that makes it different from the other whites, in that it has some residual sugar at the end but is far from being sweet (check)
• Pairs well with fish, seafood, vegetables and light meats (check)

So I was already sold. But when I found out it only cost $14.40 and has only 8.5% alcohol, well... The Dr. L Riesling is now a permanent fixture in my fridge, as it represents the perfect wine to enjoy at all times, and particularly on a school night when I just want to unwind without feeling "remorse" the next day.

Dr.L Loosen Bros Riesling Qba M-S-R 2006

(SAQ Code: 10685251, $14.40)

After reeling from just being exposed to such an experience, I reconciled my guilt by asking my wine mentors what the difference was between the two. My notes were the following:

1996 Nuits Saint Georges Villages, Aux Lavieres, Leroy had a beautiful brick red colour that was not especially dense. On the nose, there was a minerality and cherry jam mix that was followed closely by a hay and leather whiff. In mouth, pleasant supple tannins, typically Pinot Noir, left me with a smoky finish. I actually tasted smoked meat, but in the Westphalia ham sense, not the Schwart’s sort of way. It was a total delight – intricate and distinct yet classy and classic.

1996 Nuits Saint Georges Villages, Lavieres, Daniel Rion shared a very similar colour yet the nose was completely different. A richer, cooked currant and small fruit nose with some leather, but exhibiting a greener note than the first wine. In mouth, the wine had more acidity and vegetal flavours. It was impressive in its freshness and dual sweet/tart nuances. Very focused.

The learning here was that both wines are from the same year, same region, same parcel of land, just two different producers. After the comparison, I understand how strongly the winemaker’s hand influences the flavours in my glass. The first wine, the Leroy, was made in a more old-fashion style where the earthiness of Pinot Noir is prioritized and haunting hints of history make their way into the bottle. In contrast, Rion makes more modern Pinot Noir wines that are fruit forward, that consider the evolving palates and that converge newer techniques and approaches to make wines that are sharper and more present.

My preference? Giving it away would be too easy… However when I did reveal to the group, one of the more experienced members smiled and with a twinkle in his eye said: “Oh Nathalie, you are in big trouble if that’s the one you like. Now you’re cursed as you understand the spirit of Burgundy and will forever seek it out…” To which I answered: “That’s a plight I’m more than willing to endure Peter…”

Huet is the absolute top estate in Vouvray and one of the top 5 in Loire.

It was previously run by Gaston Huet, a legendary figure in the region, and this for the longest time. Gaston did not have sons, so he asked his "gendre", Noel Pinguet to manage the estate when he retired. After Gaston's death a couple years ago, Noel could not pay the inheritance tax. This scenario is a big problem for winemakers in France because the tax is calculated from the value of the land and most have to sell off part of it because they don't have the cash flow. And this especially in places like Champagne and Burgundy where an hectare of land can run up to $1 million. Unfortunately, the domaine was sold to the domaine's main American importer, who is a silent investor but has very fortunately left Pinguet run the place.

The domaine has always been run organically but Noel initiated biodynamic cultures in the late 1980s. They produce sweet and dry wines and everything in between. All wines come from 3 sites (Bourg, Mont and Haut Lieu) with a 4th one currently being converted to bio. What is interesting is that in good years, one can buy from the Clos du bourg a demi-sec, a dry and a moelleux and then compare them. The moelleux comes in regular bottling or “1er trie”. The top wine, Cuvee Constance, is only produced in the best years - typically 3 to 5 times a decade.

The reputation of the estate is largely based on two things. First the purity of its wines which are by far the best expression of chenin you can find. Second, the longevity of the wines. For example, a recent tasting at the estate revealed that the '47 was "...just ready to drink" !!! 1947 was the vintage of the century mind you, but the point is well made.

The 2005 wine are currently on the shelves at the SAQ and I would recommend them as this was a very good vintage, the best since 97.

Pictured here (at the Biodynamic Conference in February 2008) is Pierre Breton, the man who makes the Cabernet Franc wine that I not only enjoyed but called the friend who flipped me the bottle within the 24 hours post consumption to ask him how to purchase many, many more. Said friend was so happy, I think I heard him purring on the other end of the line… Yes Martin, you did it, you converted another.

Back to M Breton. This man and his lovely wife Catherine make entirely organic, biodynamic wines with very if any sulphites. Located in Bourgeuil in the Loire, these two have a deep love for what they do and the commitment to the preservation of purity in the oenological arts – and you can taste it.

The wine I sampled was the 2005 Trinch! It’s 100% Cabernet Franc and a private import. And here is how my revelation unfolded. Opened and pour, it was sceptically scrutinized.

First off, what an amazing colour – I think I was mesmerized for a good 5 minutes. On the nose, unmistakable Cab Franc but it also had this fresh, damp, mineral aspect that was rather alluring. I was trying to figure out what else there was but I knew there was some fruit but not cooked fruit – almost like fresh fruit. The taste confirmed it for me –raspberry with some fresh tobacco smokiness and a smooth finish that surprised me because of the present but focused tannins. The acidity of the wine was what sold me in the end.

I was doubtful was I when I opened the bottle, amazed when I drank the wine and sad when the bottle was empty. Honestly, there are few moments when I can have such changes in perspective and I absolutely adore them. And to think that if I hadn’t been willing to try another Cabernet Franc, just in case this one was good, I would have missed this phenomenal incident. And that would have been a shame…

For me, the key words in this definition to retain are wine making savoir-faire (know-how) and personality. These in my opinion are the two most difficult to define in concrete ways and the ones that more often than not rest in the hands of the winemaker(s). There are the people behind wines and for lack of a better word, their “touch” is what makes wines unique.

At the Montreal Wine and Spirits Show and the related events, I had the privilege of meeting some of the people who's influence figures in my wine glass. It was a pleasure to meet them and see how their verbally expressed philosophies transferred to the tastes and textures of their wines. I compiled a small montage of my experience and invite you to download it from my Take Away section: Wine_Spirits_Shows.pdf.

* http://www.terroir-france.com/ , which by the way, is a great web site for basic information about French wines.

Torrontés is an indigenous varietal from Argentina that makes both red and white wines. Argentina used to be the only country to produce it but I was at a tasting recently that showcased a wine from Andalusia (Spain) with this grape in the blend. Bill Zacharkiw called it Pixie Wine… this should give you an idea of why this is a fun grape for summer…

This type of grape is part of the Malvasia family of varieties which tend to exhibit pear and other fresh fruity flavours. The grapes in this family are also preferred to make sweet and fortified wines such as Vin Santo and Madiera.

Whites made with Torrontés are made to be drunk young. This is a by-the-pool wine, a pre-supper option and with food, pairs well with smoked meats, mild to medium-strong cheeses, and seafood. To me, this screams backyard BBQ.

At this point, there are no Torrontés available at the SAQ or when used, it is part of a blend, so I had to scout the private importers. I tasted a pure Torrontés, courtesy of my friend Jean-Charles Thiry from Uvas Imports. The 2005 Pirca Huasi Cafayate Valley Torrontés Altitud 1.78mts was refreshingly fruity with peach and floral aromas. A touch of citrus but mostly stone fruit nuances. It’s not very structured but there is a nice balance between the sweetness and the acidity, making it quite simply fun. The consensus was that for the price, less than $20 a bottle, it was a definite addition to the summer cellars being conceived around the table.

For more information on purchasing the wine, email Jean-Charles at: jcthiry@sympatico.ca