Food With A Point

The other night I felt like a real jerk. No, it’s not because I was in a foul mood or an unsavoury experience needed to be dealt with. It’s because I was sitting at a wine tasting with two impeccable Burgundy reds and having to compare them and profess myself as to which appealed to me more. It seemed almost as preposterous as deciding which was better – a big diamond or a big diamond when one should be so lucky as to have access to one in the first place.

After reeling from just being exposed to such an experience, I reconciled my guilt by asking my wine mentors what the difference was between the two. My notes were the following:

1996 Nuits Saint Georges Villages, Aux Lavieres, Leroy had a beautiful brick red colour that was not especially dense. On the nose, there was a minerality and cherry jam mix that was followed closely by a hay and leather whiff. In mouth, pleasant supple tannins, typically Pinot Noir, left me with a smoky finish. I actually tasted smoked meat, but in the Westphalia ham sense, not the Schwart’s sort of way. It was a total delight – intricate and distinct yet classy and classic.

1996 Nuits Saint Georges Villages, Lavieres, Daniel Rion shared a very similar colour yet the nose was completely different. A richer, cooked currant and small fruit nose with some leather, but exhibiting a greener note than the first wine. In mouth, the wine had more acidity and vegetal flavours. It was impressive in its freshness and dual sweet/tart nuances. Very focused.

The learning here was that both wines are from the same year, same region, same parcel of land, just two different producers. After the comparison, I understand how strongly the winemaker’s hand influences the flavours in my glass. The first wine, the Leroy, was made in a more old-fashion style where the earthiness of Pinot Noir is prioritized and haunting hints of history make their way into the bottle. In contrast, Rion makes more modern Pinot Noir wines that are fruit forward, that consider the evolving palates and that converge newer techniques and approaches to make wines that are sharper and more present.

My preference? Giving it away would be too easy… However when I did reveal to the group, one of the more experienced members smiled and with a twinkle in his eye said: “Oh Nathalie, you are in big trouble if that’s the one you like. Now you’re cursed as you understand the spirit of Burgundy and will forever seek it out…” To which I answered: “That’s a plight I’m more than willing to endure Peter…”