Food With A Point

There’s an expression: different strokes for different folks. Recently, I learned that this cliché also applies to my wine affinities. It would maybe go something like various varietals for various mortals… I’m trying here…

In this case, it’s that while Nebbiolo may be considered the greatest of Italian grapes, it’s not, post a tasting, ever going to be my first choice. And there is nothing wrong with that. If anything, I’m glad I had the opportunity to experience a number of Nebbiolos. This ensures that my choice is based on a more complete understanding of what it has to offer my palate. ‘Tis a noble grape nonetheless and deserves the attention it garners for the obvious joy it brings to many wine drinkers and its complimentary properties to food.

Nebbiolo, a big, tannic, sometimes bitter grape, is so revered by Italians that very few cuttings have ever left the native land. Italians grow it mostly in Piedmont and a bit in Lombardy. Nebbiolo is essential to all Barolos, Barbarescos and Gattinara wines. In Lombardy, Nebbiolo is called Chiavennasca and is grown in Valtellina. Note that while the wines are big, the colour of most of these wines remains a lighter garnet without much density.

This is a fickle grape, one that rivals Pinot Noir in terms of the soil, temperature and workmanship it requires in order to make a good wine. Sensitive to the slightest change, it can produce wines that will vary dramatically in terms of acidity, tannins, balance and body, even though the vineyards of origins are direct neighbors.

Typical Nebbiolo flavours and aromas include truffles, cherry, anise, smoke, toast and leather. One doesn’t drink Nebbiolo alone, it is a food wine. Pair it with strong flavours and rich textures: stewed meat, dry-aged cheese. These will meld well with the general hard tannins, chewy texture and high acidity of the wines and even out the higher alcohol level (14.5%-15.5%).

And now, the tasting notes…

We were eight, six who currently work in the industry as wine somethings (sommeliers, barmen, consultants, waitresses), one who used to be a wine rep and yours truly. Since I’ve outlined that the biggest piece of personal learning that came from this tasting was my non-attraction to Nebbiolo, I am reporting the comments made by the group as a whole – which consisted mostly of Nebbiolo aficionados. The wines identified in italics were my preferred options.

2003 Barolo San Lorenzo, Fratelli Alessandria (private import)

• An initial assault of aggressive tannins later revealed strawberries, figs and dried fruits on the palate. The tannins later smoothed out and created a more balanced wine, even though the high alcohol facet remained. This fruit forward wine exhibits the traits of a hot vintage and results in a more rustic, drinkable wine that is ready to enjoy now.

2002 Valtellina Superiore 5 Stelle Sfursat, Nino Negri (vintage no longer available at SAQ)

• Suave, supple, with beautiful silky tannins, this wine had chocolate and dried fruit flavours abound. It was a classic and elegant Nebbiolo that continued to evolve into an even more approachable, if not seductive wine. Extremely well made, this Amarone-style wine has us all swooning.

2003 Gattinara Antoniolo (SAQ code: 10861023, $43.00)

• This wine had the most complex nose: smoked nuances, dead rose, fennel, moss, tobacco, nutmeg, and the list goes on. In mouth it lacked a little fruit. Nonetheless, the super soft tannins and low acidity made this an extremely appealing option.

2003 Valtellina Superiore 5 Stelle Sfursat, Nino Negri (SAQ code: 10542330, $62.00)

• The first thing one taster pointed out was how similar this wine, the fourth, was to the second. In that moment, he identified himself as a great taster, as this was indeed the same wine but from a different vintage. The differences between the two were that this example has a smokier edge and a caramel corn/chocolate undercurrent that was rather tasty.

2002 Valle Guadaloupe Nebbiolo Reserva Privada, L.A. Cetto (SAQ code: 10390233, $19.05)

• Any good tasting has a pirate, and this was it. One of the few places outside of Italy where Nebbiolo is grown is in Mexico. Considered a great vintage from one of the more successful vineyards of Nebbiolo outside of Italy, the result is clearly different from all other wines tasted. Notable were the macerated dried fruit notes and the animal, almost sanguine aromas. Most tasters agreed that while it remains a nice wine and had a great price-to-quality ratio, it was not up to par with the real McCoys we had before us.

1998 Barbarecso Rio Sordo, Fratelli Brovia (private import)

• The most classic and traditional expression of Barbaresco at the tasting, this wine wanted to be more than it was. With floral and liquorice nuances, it had a rustic feel to it. Unfortunately, while the preliminary nose was lovely, it got lost along the way and a few hours in, the wine was just a shadow of what it had initially displayed.

2003 Barbaresco Pelissero Tulin (private import)

• Something was off about this wine, because the banana skin nose it presented just wasn’t right. In fact, one taster described it this way: “If this was a white wine, I wouldn’t be as offended by this – but it’s a red, and I’m insulted”. Metallic, mechanical, aggressive and wood were just some of the interjected comments. Modern style or not, we concluded that erroneous yeasts were to blame and moved on.

2001 Barbaresco Vigneto Brich Ronchi, Rocca Albino (SAQ code: 10386496, $72.00)

• Smoked sausage, animal, meat – all the guys were drooling... Very tannic and lacking in acidity, this is definitely a food wine. Young, for a Nebbiolo, it needs a bit more time to mature. “It’s like your best friend’s younger sister” – you just can’t wait until this one grows up…

2004 Valtellina Superiore Sassella Le Tense, Nino Negri (SAQ code: 10543471, $26.40)

• Another from Nino Negri (Gambero Rosso Winemaker of the Year 2007), this wine was well balanced with tannic persistence. Elegant and soft, it almost had a Beaujolais (Lapierre or Morgon?) feel to it. Bright and sweet, with kirsch and cherry notes – its beauty was in its simplicity. The best price-to-quality ratio of the lot.