Food With A Point

I recently discovered the 2006 Dr. L Riesling from the Loosen Bros, a fabulous little wine, while lunching at McKiernan's (see the May 2008 Newsletter). It fits all my criteria for a good white wine:

• Nice acidity from the Riesling (check)
• Crisp, with some apple and pear notes (check)
• A nice finish that is a bit tart (check)
• An interesting aspect that makes it different from the other whites, in that it has some residual sugar at the end but is far from being sweet (check)
• Pairs well with fish, seafood, vegetables and light meats (check)

So I was already sold. But when I found out it only cost $14.40 and has only 8.5% alcohol, well... The Dr. L Riesling is now a permanent fixture in my fridge, as it represents the perfect wine to enjoy at all times, and particularly on a school night when I just want to unwind without feeling "remorse" the next day.

Dr.L Loosen Bros Riesling Qba M-S-R 2006

(SAQ Code: 10685251, $14.40)

The other night I felt like a real jerk. No, it’s not because I was in a foul mood or an unsavoury experience needed to be dealt with. It’s because I was sitting at a wine tasting with two impeccable Burgundy reds and having to compare them and profess myself as to which appealed to me more. It seemed almost as preposterous as deciding which was better – a big diamond or a big diamond when one should be so lucky as to have access to one in the first place.

After reeling from just being exposed to such an experience, I reconciled my guilt by asking my wine mentors what the difference was between the two. My notes were the following:

1996 Nuits Saint Georges Villages, Aux Lavieres, Leroy had a beautiful brick red colour that was not especially dense. On the nose, there was a minerality and cherry jam mix that was followed closely by a hay and leather whiff. In mouth, pleasant supple tannins, typically Pinot Noir, left me with a smoky finish. I actually tasted smoked meat, but in the Westphalia ham sense, not the Schwart’s sort of way. It was a total delight – intricate and distinct yet classy and classic.

1996 Nuits Saint Georges Villages, Lavieres, Daniel Rion shared a very similar colour yet the nose was completely different. A richer, cooked currant and small fruit nose with some leather, but exhibiting a greener note than the first wine. In mouth, the wine had more acidity and vegetal flavours. It was impressive in its freshness and dual sweet/tart nuances. Very focused.

The learning here was that both wines are from the same year, same region, same parcel of land, just two different producers. After the comparison, I understand how strongly the winemaker’s hand influences the flavours in my glass. The first wine, the Leroy, was made in a more old-fashion style where the earthiness of Pinot Noir is prioritized and haunting hints of history make their way into the bottle. In contrast, Rion makes more modern Pinot Noir wines that are fruit forward, that consider the evolving palates and that converge newer techniques and approaches to make wines that are sharper and more present.

My preference? Giving it away would be too easy… However when I did reveal to the group, one of the more experienced members smiled and with a twinkle in his eye said: “Oh Nathalie, you are in big trouble if that’s the one you like. Now you’re cursed as you understand the spirit of Burgundy and will forever seek it out…” To which I answered: “That’s a plight I’m more than willing to endure Peter…”

I have a friend whose knowledge of wine is astounding and I am privy to his recommendations and musings. In light of the fact that he has a serious full-time job that keeps him very busy and thus doesn't allow him necessarily to organize his thoughts for his own blog (which we would all benefit from), I have taken it upon myself to be his communication vehicle. From time to time, I will post his lessons and thoughts regarding wine. I know you’ll find them as enlightening as I do.

Huet is the absolute top estate in Vouvray and one of the top 5 in Loire.

It was previously run by Gaston Huet, a legendary figure in the region, and this for the longest time. Gaston did not have sons, so he asked his "gendre", Noel Pinguet to manage the estate when he retired. After Gaston's death a couple years ago, Noel could not pay the inheritance tax. This scenario is a big problem for winemakers in France because the tax is calculated from the value of the land and most have to sell off part of it because they don't have the cash flow. And this especially in places like Champagne and Burgundy where an hectare of land can run up to $1 million. Unfortunately, the domaine was sold to the domaine's main American importer, who is a silent investor but has very fortunately left Pinguet run the place.

The domaine has always been run organically but Noel initiated biodynamic cultures in the late 1980s. They produce sweet and dry wines and everything in between. All wines come from 3 sites (Bourg, Mont and Haut Lieu) with a 4th one currently being converted to bio. What is interesting is that in good years, one can buy from the Clos du bourg a demi-sec, a dry and a moelleux and then compare them. The moelleux comes in regular bottling or “1er trie”. The top wine, Cuvee Constance, is only produced in the best years - typically 3 to 5 times a decade.

The reputation of the estate is largely based on two things. First the purity of its wines which are by far the best expression of chenin you can find. Second, the longevity of the wines. For example, a recent tasting at the estate revealed that the '47 was "...just ready to drink" !!! 1947 was the vintage of the century mind you, but the point is well made.

The 2005 wine are currently on the shelves at the SAQ and I would recommend them as this was a very good vintage, the best since 97.

Last week, I had a Cabernet Franc-based wine that I liked. This is a huge deal. In the past, I have returned wines to the SAQ that were of this varietal because I thought they were corked they were so much not to my liking. After Jos (my friendly advisor) delicately told me that the offensive bottle was indeed a great expression of this grape from the Loire, we had no choice but to conclude that I did not have an affinity for Cabernet Franc and all future recommendations would veer away from this type. Since that seminal moment, I experienced many other instances when I was able to confirm my distaste… until this weekend.

Pictured here (at the Biodynamic Conference in February 2008) is Pierre Breton, the man who makes the Cabernet Franc wine that I not only enjoyed but called the friend who flipped me the bottle within the 24 hours post consumption to ask him how to purchase many, many more. Said friend was so happy, I think I heard him purring on the other end of the line… Yes Martin, you did it, you converted another.

Back to M Breton. This man and his lovely wife Catherine make entirely organic, biodynamic wines with very if any sulphites. Located in Bourgeuil in the Loire, these two have a deep love for what they do and the commitment to the preservation of purity in the oenological arts – and you can taste it.

The wine I sampled was the 2005 Trinch! It’s 100% Cabernet Franc and a private import. And here is how my revelation unfolded. Opened and pour, it was sceptically scrutinized.

First off, what an amazing colour – I think I was mesmerized for a good 5 minutes. On the nose, unmistakable Cab Franc but it also had this fresh, damp, mineral aspect that was rather alluring. I was trying to figure out what else there was but I knew there was some fruit but not cooked fruit – almost like fresh fruit. The taste confirmed it for me –raspberry with some fresh tobacco smokiness and a smooth finish that surprised me because of the present but focused tannins. The acidity of the wine was what sold me in the end.

I was doubtful was I when I opened the bottle, amazed when I drank the wine and sad when the bottle was empty. Honestly, there are few moments when I can have such changes in perspective and I absolutely adore them. And to think that if I hadn’t been willing to try another Cabernet Franc, just in case this one was good, I would have missed this phenomenal incident. And that would have been a shame…

Terroir is defined as: a group of vineyards (or even vines) from the same region, belonging to a specific appellation, and sharing the same type of soil, weather conditions, grapes and wine making savoir-faire, which contribute to give its specific personality to the wine.*

For me, the key words in this definition to retain are wine making savoir-faire (know-how) and personality. These in my opinion are the two most difficult to define in concrete ways and the ones that more often than not rest in the hands of the winemaker(s). There are the people behind wines and for lack of a better word, their “touch” is what makes wines unique.

At the Montreal Wine and Spirits Show and the related events, I had the privilege of meeting some of the people who's influence figures in my wine glass. It was a pleasure to meet them and see how their verbally expressed philosophies transferred to the tastes and textures of their wines. I compiled a small montage of my experience and invite you to download it from my Take Away section: Wine_Spirits_Shows.pdf.

* http://www.terroir-france.com/ , which by the way, is a great web site for basic information about French wines.

It doesn’t always seem like it but it’s almost time to start drinking whites compulsively. Nothing beats a crisp refreshing glass of wine when the temperature is warm. I am now in the process of reorganizing the cellar and putting the more robust reds in storage and making room for the whites I plan to quaff this summer. Chardonnay (un-oaked for me unless it’s a fine bottle from Burgundy), Riesling (from Germany and Austria please!) and Sauvignon Blanc (especially from the Loire) are basic considerations. But I like to keep it interesting so I also started to research some weird white varietals. Last year I added Gruner Veltliners (be still my heart – click here) and discovered a penchant for Marsanne . This year, I learned about Torrontés.

Torrontés is an indigenous varietal from Argentina that makes both red and white wines. Argentina used to be the only country to produce it but I was at a tasting recently that showcased a wine from Andalusia (Spain) with this grape in the blend. Bill Zacharkiw called it Pixie Wine… this should give you an idea of why this is a fun grape for summer…

This type of grape is part of the Malvasia family of varieties which tend to exhibit pear and other fresh fruity flavours. The grapes in this family are also preferred to make sweet and fortified wines such as Vin Santo and Madiera.

Whites made with Torrontés are made to be drunk young. This is a by-the-pool wine, a pre-supper option and with food, pairs well with smoked meats, mild to medium-strong cheeses, and seafood. To me, this screams backyard BBQ.

At this point, there are no Torrontés available at the SAQ or when used, it is part of a blend, so I had to scout the private importers. I tasted a pure Torrontés, courtesy of my friend Jean-Charles Thiry from Uvas Imports. The 2005 Pirca Huasi Cafayate Valley Torrontés Altitud 1.78mts was refreshingly fruity with peach and floral aromas. A touch of citrus but mostly stone fruit nuances. It’s not very structured but there is a nice balance between the sweetness and the acidity, making it quite simply fun. The consensus was that for the price, less than $20 a bottle, it was a definite addition to the summer cellars being conceived around the table.

For more information on purchasing the wine, email Jean-Charles at: jcthiry@sympatico.ca

Last week many of the Italian wines highlighted in the SAQ’s Cellier magazine made their appearance in stores. At a wine tasting organized in concordance to these new arrivals I was able to taste quite a few of them. Organized in four flights, we tasted four whites and 12 reds. Here are my notes on what I found to be the most interesting.

2006 ColliPesaresi i.g.t, Amorino, Podere Castorani (SAQ code: 10859249, $22.95)

• This white wine is made from the Pecorino varietal and had almost a southern France white feel about it. Acidic and a bit spicy but with rich cooked apples, candied lemon and fig nuances. It has a dense palate that is more interesting than the nose but that’s also what makes it alluring – it’s not obvious. It will make for a great summer thirst quencher. A great pairing with smoked sausage.

2005 Barbera d’Asti, Camp du Rouss, Azienda Coppo (SAQ code: 10859628, $23.50)

• I really like more acidic reds and I have penchant for Barbera d’Asti. This wine is what I think a summer red should be – not too heavy with balanced tannins and a certain tartness. It has berry and slightly toasty flavours with an almost licorice finish, making it and easy to drink with grilled lean meats.

2005 Langhe, Nebbiolo, Perbacco, Vietti (SAQ code: 10861031, $23.95)

• Nebbiolo is not my favourite varietal (see my tasting experience here), but this one I wouldn’t turn away. It revealed chocolate, cherry, black licorice and some definite earthiness. It was balanced but remained a bit harsh with the tannins – it should be decanted or even better, left alone for a few years. In that sense it’s an excellent quality to price ratio wine. Should you wish to try it today, I’d go with something meaty and a bit fatty.

2005 Toscana i.g.t. Le Volte Ornellaia (SAQ code: 00878322, $27.95)

• This one was the star wine of the evening. It was delightful, revealing plums, fennel and something toasted on the nose - it just smelled like good wine. On the palate it was cherry and a bit sour and then it softened up to offer a fresh, almost herbal and lengthy finish . Nicely balanced initially it got even better with aeration. The good news is that the SAQ ordered 27,996 bottles of it so I don’t have to stockpile bottles of this gem!

It was one of those days in early March when you really wonder why the heck you live in a city with such horrendous weather. It’s just not humane to expect anything to survive, much less function, in what seems like 18 feet of blowing snow with a -20 wind chill.

In moments like this, there is only one solution – pretend it’s warm where you are. In my case, that means drinking something white, tart and fun. It turns out that I had a friend who was pretty much on the same page so we decided to meet up at Vents du Sud, a Basque restaurant, and open my bottle of Txacoli, and then tons of jewels from his cellar. But my wine is the point of this post, - next time we'll talk about yours Martin.

Txacoli (tcha-coh-lee) is traditional wine of the Basque country in Spain. And there is a reason why they call it a country when it’s a region – the Basque’s think in their own way and have done so for over a thousand years. In fact, their native language, Euskara, is still fluently spoken and is one of the few in the world that doesn’t have roots in the Indo-European languages. And the Basque like the fact that no one gets them, because they get themselves and that’s just fine. So when it comes to their wine, the same can be said – different is good.

Txacoli de Guetaria is a Spanish appellation or DO and is located near San Sebastian on the northern coast of the Iberian Peninsula. The white wines are exclusively made from the Ondarrabi Zuri grape and the reds from the Ondarribi Beltza. The production is small because this extremely regional product is only now starting to pique the interest of those outside the villages.

The wine we had was a white, the 2006 Txakoli Txomin Etxaniz. The alcohol content is an easy 11% making this the optimal summer wine. It is a very pale yellow, almost light green. On the nose there are unmistakable minerals but some floral and some tart fruits. In mouth, we noticed green apples and lemon candy but a slightly sour finish. What was most interesting was there was a density in the flavours but not in the weight of the wine, surprising especially since our bottle displayed the characteristic light effervescence of a good Txacoli.

I wish I could tell you that this wonderful product is available here, or even at the LCBO, but it’s not. I got mine through someone who took a bus to NYC. But believe me, the goodness of Txacoli certainly makes me consider the bus as a travel option for my trips to the Big Apple…

There’s an expression: different strokes for different folks. Recently, I learned that this cliché also applies to my wine affinities. It would maybe go something like various varietals for various mortals… I’m trying here…

In this case, it’s that while Nebbiolo may be considered the greatest of Italian grapes, it’s not, post a tasting, ever going to be my first choice. And there is nothing wrong with that. If anything, I’m glad I had the opportunity to experience a number of Nebbiolos. This ensures that my choice is based on a more complete understanding of what it has to offer my palate. ‘Tis a noble grape nonetheless and deserves the attention it garners for the obvious joy it brings to many wine drinkers and its complimentary properties to food.

Nebbiolo, a big, tannic, sometimes bitter grape, is so revered by Italians that very few cuttings have ever left the native land. Italians grow it mostly in Piedmont and a bit in Lombardy. Nebbiolo is essential to all Barolos, Barbarescos and Gattinara wines. In Lombardy, Nebbiolo is called Chiavennasca and is grown in Valtellina. Note that while the wines are big, the colour of most of these wines remains a lighter garnet without much density.

This is a fickle grape, one that rivals Pinot Noir in terms of the soil, temperature and workmanship it requires in order to make a good wine. Sensitive to the slightest change, it can produce wines that will vary dramatically in terms of acidity, tannins, balance and body, even though the vineyards of origins are direct neighbors.

Typical Nebbiolo flavours and aromas include truffles, cherry, anise, smoke, toast and leather. One doesn’t drink Nebbiolo alone, it is a food wine. Pair it with strong flavours and rich textures: stewed meat, dry-aged cheese. These will meld well with the general hard tannins, chewy texture and high acidity of the wines and even out the higher alcohol level (14.5%-15.5%).

And now, the tasting notes…

We were eight, six who currently work in the industry as wine somethings (sommeliers, barmen, consultants, waitresses), one who used to be a wine rep and yours truly. Since I’ve outlined that the biggest piece of personal learning that came from this tasting was my non-attraction to Nebbiolo, I am reporting the comments made by the group as a whole – which consisted mostly of Nebbiolo aficionados. The wines identified in italics were my preferred options.

2003 Barolo San Lorenzo, Fratelli Alessandria (private import)

• An initial assault of aggressive tannins later revealed strawberries, figs and dried fruits on the palate. The tannins later smoothed out and created a more balanced wine, even though the high alcohol facet remained. This fruit forward wine exhibits the traits of a hot vintage and results in a more rustic, drinkable wine that is ready to enjoy now.

2002 Valtellina Superiore 5 Stelle Sfursat, Nino Negri (vintage no longer available at SAQ)

• Suave, supple, with beautiful silky tannins, this wine had chocolate and dried fruit flavours abound. It was a classic and elegant Nebbiolo that continued to evolve into an even more approachable, if not seductive wine. Extremely well made, this Amarone-style wine has us all swooning.

2003 Gattinara Antoniolo (SAQ code: 10861023, $43.00)

• This wine had the most complex nose: smoked nuances, dead rose, fennel, moss, tobacco, nutmeg, and the list goes on. In mouth it lacked a little fruit. Nonetheless, the super soft tannins and low acidity made this an extremely appealing option.

2003 Valtellina Superiore 5 Stelle Sfursat, Nino Negri (SAQ code: 10542330, $62.00)

• The first thing one taster pointed out was how similar this wine, the fourth, was to the second. In that moment, he identified himself as a great taster, as this was indeed the same wine but from a different vintage. The differences between the two were that this example has a smokier edge and a caramel corn/chocolate undercurrent that was rather tasty.

2002 Valle Guadaloupe Nebbiolo Reserva Privada, L.A. Cetto (SAQ code: 10390233, $19.05)

• Any good tasting has a pirate, and this was it. One of the few places outside of Italy where Nebbiolo is grown is in Mexico. Considered a great vintage from one of the more successful vineyards of Nebbiolo outside of Italy, the result is clearly different from all other wines tasted. Notable were the macerated dried fruit notes and the animal, almost sanguine aromas. Most tasters agreed that while it remains a nice wine and had a great price-to-quality ratio, it was not up to par with the real McCoys we had before us.

1998 Barbarecso Rio Sordo, Fratelli Brovia (private import)

• The most classic and traditional expression of Barbaresco at the tasting, this wine wanted to be more than it was. With floral and liquorice nuances, it had a rustic feel to it. Unfortunately, while the preliminary nose was lovely, it got lost along the way and a few hours in, the wine was just a shadow of what it had initially displayed.

2003 Barbaresco Pelissero Tulin (private import)

• Something was off about this wine, because the banana skin nose it presented just wasn’t right. In fact, one taster described it this way: “If this was a white wine, I wouldn’t be as offended by this – but it’s a red, and I’m insulted”. Metallic, mechanical, aggressive and wood were just some of the interjected comments. Modern style or not, we concluded that erroneous yeasts were to blame and moved on.

2001 Barbaresco Vigneto Brich Ronchi, Rocca Albino (SAQ code: 10386496, $72.00)

• Smoked sausage, animal, meat – all the guys were drooling... Very tannic and lacking in acidity, this is definitely a food wine. Young, for a Nebbiolo, it needs a bit more time to mature. “It’s like your best friend’s younger sister” – you just can’t wait until this one grows up…

2004 Valtellina Superiore Sassella Le Tense, Nino Negri (SAQ code: 10543471, $26.40)

• Another from Nino Negri (Gambero Rosso Winemaker of the Year 2007), this wine was well balanced with tannic persistence. Elegant and soft, it almost had a Beaujolais (Lapierre or Morgon?) feel to it. Bright and sweet, with kirsch and cherry notes – its beauty was in its simplicity. The best price-to-quality ratio of the lot.

The other day, I really needed to have something healthy. Don’t ask why, because I will never admit to debauchery or hedonistic evenings filled with lovely wines, but nonetheless my body required a bit of reviving. Call it fate but a few moments later I was standing in front of the cold fridge at Tredici, a new eatery on Fairmount, and it was sitting there, beckoning me. The morning after we usually have have two options, suffer or employ the "hair of the dog" tactic. I am proud to present a third option.

The Firefly Detox drink is composed of mostly lemon, lime and ginger essences with water. Well that’s what it says on the front of the label. A closer look reveals that it also includes all sorts of other botanicals: Siberian ginseng (root), nettle (leaf), sarsaparilla (root), angelica (root), globe Artichoke (root) and rosemary (leaf). All the ingredients are natural and I promise that while the list of ingredients may make it seem almost impossible to believe, it tasted really good and not at all like those tonics mom used to make us drink during that 80s health craze (calcium tablets and royal jelly anyone?).

Firefly is a London-based company. They are shipping their products all the way here and for that we are grateful. Other flavours available are:

• Wake-up (red grapes, peaches and green tea)
• Chill-out (blackcurrant and apple juice with spices)
• Health kick (blood oranges and Manuka honey with Ginger)
• Sharpen up (grapefruit, passion fruit and Yerba Maté)

Consider Firfely drinks like the good kind of energy booster. Natural, with ingredients you know and can pronounce and have always eaten. I also relate to their tag line: Firefly - for people who work harder, stay up later, and still want to feel their best. Now I feel even more justified to work hard and play hard...

www.fireflytonics.com

They can be found at Tredici (275 Fairmount, 514.509.1341) as well as at Holt Renfrew.