Food With A Point

It’s very rare when one goes out for dinner with others and not once during the meal is there something that someone won’t eat. It is particularly uncommon when at least one person at the table likes to stick to European standards that have been tested and true and you take them to a modern take on a Vietnamese restaurant. This was the scenario but a few days ago when I patronized La Feuille de Menthe with some friends.

This newbie on the scene can be found in the old locales of Au Cyclo, a Montreal Vietnamese trademark back in it’s day. I had never been to the previous so I can only attest to our present experience, which on the abnormally frigid night, was cozy and very soothing.

It is important to set the stage because without a doubt, one does not go to La Feuille de Menthe for the décor (I had flashbacks of the Asian buffet I frequented as a child in Brossard) or the ambient music (Julio Iglesias muzak) or because they want a fast meal (we were the only table and yet managed to linger for three hours when it could have been more like two). Essentially, if you aren’t in a good mood and plan to nitpick, don’t go on that night. However, if you have friends you haven’t seem in a few months and there is some catching up to do, people to gossip about and exchanges of information about past culinary escapades, head to this spot. It’s casual and comfortable in every sense.

Once seated, we asked the owner to guide us through the menu. I found it clever that she included laminated reviews of the restaurant with the menu, allowing us to gauge which dishes might be of interest, depending on the critics we most associate to – a filter of sorts. In the end, she made the final decision because her smile swayed us to believe she would make the best choices and we were handsomely rewarded.

Three people, three soups. One crab and tomato, one chicken and coconut and one won-ton (I mentioned this was a modern establishment). No comments other than delicious and balanced were uttered between slurps.

A plate with two spring rolls cut sushi-style and artfully presented came next. Typically light yet overflowing with rice vermicelli, the beef and mint was robust compared to the shrimp and basil variety but both married well with the warm peanut sauce.

Next, a tempura battered and fried soft-shelled crab not only reaffirmed to those who had previously enjoyed them how good this dish really is but actually converted the other, generally more squeamish member – a noble feat in itself.

The main dishes were when we understood the genius that is Vietnamese cuisine, when properly executed. Poisson a l’aneth or Dill fish is exactly that. Served on a sizzling plate, a tender and juicy whitefish is carpeted with loads of fresh dill and green onion. Take some rice vermicelli on your plate, add some lettuce, mint, coriander and purslane leaves, some Nuoc mam (fish brine) and top with the fish and some roasted peanuts. Heaven, pure and simple. The other main dish was a whole coconut, filled with a creamy seafood, broccoli and button mushroom stew. Spoon on some rice and add a dash of teriyaki sauce and you’ll know how balanced flavours and textures can lead to total escapism.

After such a feast, there was no need for dessert yet the fortune cookies that came with the bill (about $20+tx/person) were such a great touch. Far from being chic, they were in perfect harmony with the décor, the muzak and the semi-kitsch presentations on the plate. Mostly, they evoked the nostalgia of Asian meals pasts while also speaking to the fundamental values of this meal – good, comfort food with a lot of soul. There is wisdom to that just as there is wisdom in those cookies…

La Feuille de Menthe

5136 Parc, (514.272.1477)

It’s a BYOW. I would opt for something like a Gewürztraminer or a sweeter Riesling from Alsace but nothing serious - something fun.

Don't blink or you might miss it. It being Spring! At La Table des Jardins Sauvages, they have decided to celebrate this momentous season with a delicious six-course meal. Francois Brouillard and Nancy Hinton, the usual suspect gathering-cooking duo, are offering what is probably the epitome of a seasonal celebration. Not one of these courses is less than spectacular sounding and I can assume, tasting. And for only $55 + tax, you are sure to get your money's worth and then some.

Reserve your seats at this BYOW establishment for the 7pm seating on May 2, 3, 9 and 10 or the 1pm seating on May 11th (which is also Mother's Day... hint, hint, nudge, nudge). Please call 450.588.5125 or go online at www.jardinssauvages.com.

In the meantime, and to get your taste buds going, here is the menu being served:

Snow crab amuse with tomato and crinkleroot dressing, pickled daisy buds

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Venison tartare with porcini and wild ginger mustard, day lily sprout and ramp remoulade

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Stinging nettle and leek chowder, smoked and braised suckling pig from Gaspor farm, boletus oil

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Quebec raw milk cheese, fried in a buckwheat crust, smoked duck breast (from Maurel et Coulombe), wild spring mesclun, wild grape balsamic

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Leg of lamb (from Stéphanie St-Jean), almond rosemary crumble, pan jus, chickpea and olive stew, Pierre André Daigneault’s root vegetables

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Labrador tea and lemon cake, vanilla-grass and white chocolate cream, rhubarb and squashberry sorbet and coulis

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Tea, coffee, infusion

Last time that I had a meal with “C” outside of one prepared at his house was at Café Italia (click here). “C” showed me his take on good Italian fast food. Please note we mean fast food in the real sense of the word: food that doesn’t take long to prepare, that doesn’t require a lengthy sit down meal to be enjoyed and doesn’t need to be analysed before, during, or after. It’s just good and to the point - no need to get all deep about the experience. Well I like good food and I trust "C" so how could I refuse an invitation for an outing?

Our most recent stop was at Chez Benny. This is a Kosher restaurant specializing in Israeli and Sephardic food. It’s for take out as well as stay in but it’s not stay in and loiter. There is a fast energy at Chez Benny. That’s what made it a perfect weeknight outing.

We walked up to the counter and “C” took over. One plate of falafel, one plate of mixed “salads”, one kefta on laffa, and a bureka was ordered for our party of three. I had absolutely no idea what I was about to eat. A few minutes later, a feast lay before us. Let us not forget the just toasted/charred thick pitas in a basket and the marinated onions and beets from the salad bar. Go hungry to Chez Benny.

The falafel plate (pictured) is a pool of hummus (chickpea dip) topped with tahina (roasted sesame seed dip), surrounded with diced cucumbers and dotted with falafels no bigger that gum balls. Falafels are chickpea fritters of sorts that at Chez Benny are the signature item. Not dense, with actual pieces of identifiable legume, these I could easily pop by the dozen.

The plate of mixed salads was really more like a plate of mixed dips and sauces and justifies the basket of pitas. There is baba ganoush made with tahina so it’s white next to grilled eggplants. There is a sun dried tomato type dip next to another less concentrated but spicier tomato-celery version. A red cabbage slaw gets added where there is room with some more diced cucumbers. Hummus and tahina in the middle of the plate round out the offering. This is whoa in terms of amount and whoa in terms of diversity of flavours and sensations. You want a party in one plate, this is as close as it gets.

Kefta on laffa is essentially char-grilled beef patties, hummus, lettuce, cabbage, cucumbers and loads of garlic wrapped in an enormous thin pita. Word to the wise, this feeds an army…with leftovers.

Finally, bureka is a stuffed pastry. At Chez Benny it's with potatoes. Imagine a small calzone-croissant hybrid filled with the same filling as potato perogies. It was a nice mix of soft and crispy.

We ordered, we sat, we ate, we breathed and then we waddled back to the car with leftovers. All of it was tasty and all of it was varied in terms of spices, seasonings and textures. Chez Benny is an experience that is very Montreal in that it’s a intriguing, flavourful and best of all commonly accessible. This was a satisfying meal that took place in an efficient manner and as an added bonus, the whole lot cost less than $30. I guess there is no other way to put it and not much more to say than “C”, you did it again. Toda.

Little side note: Chez Benny also serves Chinese Food. We don’t really know why or how that marriage of cultures took place under the same roof and how they manage to share the same counter, but it seems to work for them. It’s probably the only place in town that guarantees kosher General Tao Chicken…

Chez Benny

5071 Queen Mary (514.735.1836)

I like going out for lunch. There is something about breaking up the day with a meal that someone else makes for you. It also always seems to be a bit lighter in spirit, on the plate and on the wallet. Conversely, there is a certain formality that comes with lunching and probably why ladies, like myself, like to do it so much. Recently, I did just this with my friend Laura. She’s a kindred spirit who loves to cook and has the background to back up her opinion – cooking in NYC kitchens will do that to you. Having heard so much about Graziella, we decided to make this place our lunch spot.

There has been much talk about this location since it opened in November. At the helm of the kitchen is Graziella Battista (formerly of Il Sole on St-Laurent street) and the front of the house belongs to her husband and partner Pierre Jullien. The space, located on McGill street in Old Montreal is beautifully stark, almost modern, but nestled in an historic building with massive doors.

We arrive at 12:30pm and are seated. The lunch formula is $25 for an appetizer and a main dish and we begin to survey the menu. It’s always a good sign when the most difficult part of the meal is deciding what to eat. My approach? I choose what I wouldn’t or couldn’t make at home. For openers, red wine braised octopus with sautéed yellow and red chard with a drizzle of olive oil it is. Ditto for Laura. The portion is seemingly small in size but not in taste and texture. There is something about octopus that gets me every time it’s made well and this one was worthy of a lengthy contemplative pause. Almost sweet, it was a nice contrast to the earthiness of the greens and the luscious acidity of the olive oil. I would have more… much more… Laura concurs.

The main dish for Laura was a tagiatelle with duck ragout and mine was the fresh sausage with herbs and roasted vegetables. Once they arrived at the table, we asked for two extra plates in order to share and were graciously obliged – a rarity today when restaurants would try to charge for reading a menu too long…

The pasta was quite al dente and the sauce that it carried had the richness of the duck that was attenuated by a carrot flecked tomato sauce and a touch of what we thought was rosemary with orange zest (?). Regardless, I loved it. It was deceptively light on the blend of seasoning but powerful in how well the aromas were married. The sausage was a hybrid meatball/sausage. The filling was looser than a typical link but denser than a properly made meatball (the kind you only need a fork in order to cut into it). Seasoned with fennel seeds and not overwhelmed by garlic, it rested perfectly on a bed of roasted baby carrots, pearl onions, sliced beets and potato wedges. There was this thin red wine based sauce that brought everything together and moistened every bite. It kind of made me wish I had a Nonna who could make this for me on Sundays…

We indulged with another shared plate, a flourless chocolate cake of sorts with orange compote and a dollop of Chantilly cream ($8). Paired with a couple allongés, it was a wonderfully decadent way to finish our lunch. Both Laura and I pretend-protested to the idea of dessert but were both happy we acquiesced to our desires.

After, as Laura drove me to my stats class, we discussed the experience and we realized that the wonderful thing about Graziella is the subtle duality it has mastered so well. The dishes are rustic but perfectly executed. The space is bright and white in an old gray building. The service is classically formal but the lunch formula quite modern. Personally, there was nothing I didn’t like and I was more than satisfied in terms of experience and hunger when I left. And lunch should be about that – something different but not necessarily overwhelming so that one can pursue their afternoon schedule but with a smile on their face. Considering I had one throughout my subsequent three hours of Multilevel and Hierarchical Modeling class, I’d say Graziella deserves more than a bravo!

Restaurant Graziella

116, rue McGill (514.876.0116)

It’s that time again, when the maple season is upon us. I have done my fair share of Cabanes a Sucre to know that I’ve done my fair share and when I crave some of that traditional Quebec elixir, I try to find alternative ways to get my fix. Here is one I propose.

It's no secret that La Table des Jardins Sauvages is one of my favs and Francois Brouillard and Nancy Hinton are proposing yet another special menu to celebrate all that is good with maple syrup. On April 4, 5, (Friday and Saturday) at 7pm and Sunday Apil 6^th for lunch at 1pm, you can indulge in five-courses that show respect to our unique product. Incorporating all sorts of other luxurious ingredients such as arctic char and quail as well as other wild goodies, chef Nancy Hinton will make you rethink the bounty of the maple tree. For a mere $55 + tax and whatever wine you wish to bring, you’ll certainly be satisfied and surprised.

Reservations are essential, so please call 450.588.5125 or go online at www.jardinssauvages.com

And here is the proposed menu:

Arctic char cured with maple brandy, maple-crinkleroot mustard, root vegetable rémoulade with smoked char, beet sprouts

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Pea soup with stinging nettle, maple smoked ham, maple sap lemon foam

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Glazed quail with wild ginger, tamari and maple, quail egg poached in maple syrup, soba noodle sesame nest, coloured carrots

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Organic Muscovy duck suprême and mini cassoulet with boletes, duck gizzard confit, sausage and smoked duck, white beans, duck jus with maple and wild grape balsamic

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Pecan maple tart, maple beignet, chocolate Labrador tea sauce, maple vanilla grass ice cream

As part my Asian epicurean adventure tour that began at the beginning of the year (see the March newsletter – click here), I traveled to Korea. Actually, it was more like a Korean restaurant on Sainte-Catherine Street West. But I promise that was authentic nonetheless.

There are some restaurants where you cannot expect “ambiance” in its traditional meaning. La Maison du Bulgogi is a place where one eats because the food is good, not because the tables are well spaced, the lighting is soft, the temperature constant and the wait staff attuned to your needs. That doesn’t mean it’s a spot to avoid, it just means that your expectations should be set in consequence. With this approach, the only focus should be on your palate and the sensations it experiences. And in this respect, you certainly won’t be disappointed.

I don’t know a thing about Korean cuisine other than having experienced one restaurant meal a few years back with a very unsavoury individual who’s very presence tainted the whole meal. So I considered myself born-again and open to anything.

First dish wasn’t ordered but made an appearance, as it should in any respectable Korean eatery. On a platter, four small dishes contain variations of Banchan, or side dishes, are presented. At La Maison du Bulgogi, they serve the following, which are a lovely way to open the appetite:

• Kimchi: a fermented cabbage seasoned with chili, served cold
• Kongnamul: cold steamed bean sprouts with sesame oil
• Miyeok-muchim: seaweed seasoned with sweet vinegar and salt
• Plain boiled potatoes served lukewarm 

The first ordered dish was a spicy soft tofu soup with seafood (Soon Dubu Jji Gae or #7). Rich and dense, it  intensely satisfying on that cold Tuesday evening. The only thing that kept me from inhaling it was the warm fire in my mouth from the chili – not a deterrent but a definite reminder that we weren’t in Kansas anymore.

Next up was a very typical Korean style pizza dish with green onions and seafood (Pa Jun or #79). This galette of deliciousness comes in its own cast iron skillet and encompasses everything a great savoury pancake should be. It was crispy on the outside, soft and fluffy on the inside with the seafood filling woken up by the fresh bite of the scallions. You know when opt to share a dish with your dinner companion but after the first bite, you really wish they would stop eating from “your” plate? Dipping pieces in the soy-based sauce it comes with makes #79 even more desirable.

The last plate was a marinated boiled beef (Bul gogi or #48). It is served with rice, which was a fantastic tool to sop up the juices the beef came to the table sizzling in. Also prepared in a flat cast iron skillet, it is fragrant and the beef succulent – surprising for such thin morsels.

The whole meal took a couple of hours, but only because we lingered. And I’m glad we did, because I really enjoyed my culinary journey that night. Finishing our tea from a seemingly bottomless pot, we left satisfied and warmed up. La Maison du Bulgogi made for a fairly light dinner that was exceptionally varied in taste and surprisingly low impact on my wallet – our total came to about $30. That’s the sort of trip I want to and I can take more often and most likely will.

La Maison du Bulgogi

2127 Sainte-Catherine Street West (514.935.9820)

Many years ago, someone took me to this place for lunch that was so off the beaten path that I completely lost my bearings. Through an odd door, into an entrance that felt like an abandoned warehouse except for the blown up picture of a black pug near a doorway, and then through another doorway later, I found myself in this very modern yet comfortable space. Packed with people, this was clearly not a secret spot – but it remained one for “those in the know” because finding it a few years later, even with the address, proved to be quite difficult.

Cluny is a breakfast and lunch spot owned by Patrick and Rob and named after Rob’s dog (hence the entrance portrait). Located in the heart of Old Montreal, nestled amongst the numerous high tech and advertising agencies, it has become a favourite eatery and it’s easy to know why.

Pop in for breakfast before work and indulge in the usual pastry options but return for the coffee. The real attraction however is lunch. Rarely does lunch satisfy on all levels because usually the main may be great but the desert lackluster or vice versa. Not at Cluny.

Upon entering, you’ll grab a tray and get in line, cafeteria style. On the blackboard you’ll note the specials of the day, the salad options as well as the soups. Whether you’re looking for something light, hearty or soul-satisfying, I promise you'll find it. And because the chef concocts a “daily” special, rarely will you have to ponder the same option twice.

The real winner for me is the antipasto salad. It’s everything you want an antipasto plate to be without all the things you don’t want it to be. Grilled/roasted vegetables are all prepared separately so each retains its own distinct flavour. They are served with a fancy and tasty potato salad, a wedge of cheese (feta or goat) and some seasonal lettuce. The eggplant slice is lacquered with a savoury tomato glaze whereas the steamed broccoli has a touch of garlic. Everything on this plate just works. Recently, my friend could only summarize it as: “This is the best salad I have ever tasted, period”. I wholeheartedly agree.

I’ve also had enjoyed lovely warm bowls of soup – in particular a chicken vegetable soup that was perfectly seasoned and allowed all 10+ veggies to shine independently. Adding few slices of bread, I was comforted to the bone.

Before leaving, do yourself a huge favour and abandon all dietary restrictions in order to have the signature chocolate Bundt cake. Yes, we all think we know what chocolate pound cake tastes like… until we have the one at Cluny. Then we understand that it can be moist without being greasy, it can be obscenely cocoa-flavoured without being cloyingly sweet, and without a decent ganache, chocolate cake is just disrespected. A macchiato to wash it down and all of a sudden, the prospect of the impending afternoon seems much more bearable.

Cluny Art Bar

257 Prince Street ( 514.866.1213)

www.cluny.info

Recently I had the pleasure of helping some friends open a restaurant by conferring some marketing advice. In return for my guidance, I was allowed unlimited access to witness the process that goes into the creation of such an establishment. From the first night when I stepped into the unfinished space to last week’s opening bash, I saw many ups, downs and in-betweens and managed to snap a few pictures along the way. In the Take Away section (click here), you’ll find a mini-montage, entitled "Birth of Resto", showing some of the process that goes into opening a restaurant and some behind the scenes procedures.

The restaurant is DNA and is officially open to the public as of today, February 5^th 2008.  This is the reveal of the most recent "Coming Soon..." (click here)

I’m not entirely objective in my recommendation but then again, I wouldn’t associate myself to a project I didn’t believe in or of questionable quality. A beautiful space with a delicious menu and a fantastic wine selection - what more can one ask for? I encourage you to take a trip to Old Montreal and discover this new spot and please don’t hesitate to let me know what you think ( gastronomy@sympatico.ca ).

DNA Restaurant

www.dnarestaurant.com

514.287.3362

I have been withholding some information for far too long and now I just can’t do it anymore. I have to come clean. Here I go…There is a new restaurant slated to open in a few weeks and the anticipation is driving me nuts. And this especially since I’m helping them out with some marketing ideas… So yes, it’s assumed that I can’t be entirely objective about this culinary destination, but rest assured that the reasons that I have associated myself to this project are because it fits my perspective on food. And if you read my site, it’s because my vision can’t be that far off from yours…

Since the main idea on this site is to share, here is a sneak preview of the space and the offering at the soon to be opened DNA Restaurant. 

Provided below are examples from each course, just to get you salivating:

• Spicy lamb tartar with almonds, mint and pecorino
• Gnocchi with oxtail, rosemary and orange
• Salt cod bouillabaisse, bivalves, herbs, aioli
• Salted pine nut and honey tart, ginger and olive oil gelato

And some of the private imports from the cellar:

• Chassagne-Montrachet Marc Morey 2005 Burgundy France
• Chianti, Vin Santo Renzo Masi 2002 Tuscany Italy
• Poeira Jorge Moreira 2004 Douro Portugal
• L'amour toujours Allée Bleue 2005 Franshoek South Africa
• So no, Syrah Rockblock 2004 Oregon USA

For more information, feel free to email me at gastronomy@sympatico.ca . I may be inclined to divulge more…

Prepare your appetite…

It’s no secret that I’m a big fan of Nancy Hinton and Francois Brouillard from La Table des Jardins Sauvages. Having discovered this place last summer (click here) and then returning for the mushroom tasting menu (click here), I feel rather confident putting my recommendation on their duck tasting menu.

Featuring three types of duck - Muscovy from the Morgan Farm (click here), Moulard, and some Peking, this seven-course feast will allow you to taste this fowl via a number of different preparations and presentations. Sometimes a meal in a restaurant should be an experience and this will certainly fit that description.

The menu is available on January 18, 19, 20, 25, 26, 27 and February 1, 2, 3 2008.

The cost of the menu is $75 with tax but tip is not included. Reservations are essential and should be made soon. Call 450.588.5125 or go online at www.jardinssauvages.com

As a "primeur" and because he rocks my decanter with his weekly recommendations, here are Bill Zacharkiw's (the Montreal Gazette wine critic) pairing suggestions with each proposed course on the menu:

Charcuterie trio: duck rillettes, foie gras terrine, duck sausage with our house mustards: wild berry, wild ginger and crinkleroot, yellow beet and crinkleroot relish, red beet wild ginger jelly

Pinot blanc 2004, Schneckenberg, Pfaffenheim France white, $19.75, SAQ # 10789826

Asian style BBQ duck, duck egg omelette, sticky rice with sesame, wild mushroom tamari sauce

Juliénas 2005, Moillard, Beaujolais red, $19.85, SAQ # 10367885

Duck broth, duck gnudi with sea spinach and parmesan

Juliénas 2005, Moillard, Beaujolais red, $19.85, SAQ # 10367885

Pan-seared duck foie gras bergamot root vegetable purée, roasted root vegetables, cider vanilla-grass sauce

Pinot noir 2005, Margrain, New Zealand $33 SAQ # 10383261

Smoked duck and fennel salad, edaname, pickled day lily buds, arugula, boletus oil, wild grape ‘balsamic’

Pan roasted Muscovy duck supreme, cloudberry and truffle sauce, crépinette of old fashioned stuffing with duck gizzard, liver and confit, Savoy cabbage and winter squash

Dâo 2003, Reserva, Quinta dos Roques, Portugal red , $32.25, SAQ # 894121

Almond sweet clover meringue, chocolate Labrador tea mousse with elderberry, elderflower ice cream