Ranch Les Beaux Bisons

This one definitely goes under discovery and I would venture to add a touch of odd to this experience. A few days ago, on my way back from a scenic tour of Hawksbury (…), I finally had a chance to make a stop at Jacques Seguin’s bison farm.

I like game and wild meats and his is the epitome of this. His bisons are exclusively fed grass – not a single dose of grain ever makes it in their pastures or troughs. Grass-fed cattle is virtually impossible to find in Canada, mostly because it is so expensive. A regular cow takes approximately 12 months, from the time it’s born, to be ready for slaughter. In contrast, these bison take an average of fours years – and it’s not just because they are a larger animal. Feeding cattle grass means they take their time naturally to grow and do so in a healthy fashion. The results can be tasted in addition to being evident in the quality of the meat itself. This ground bison meat, which we made unbelievable burgers with later than evening, has less than 1% fat and is 24% protein.

Like many organic farmers, Seguin is deeply committed to his pursuit and willingly discusses his passion. Visitors are asked to call ahead and reservations for meat can be made. The store (his house) is not open at all time hence why an appointment is preferred. All products are vacuum packed and frozen. And if you are looking to buy a filet mignon roast, wait your turn, the next available one is in 2010… Looks like others also realized that the concept of grassfed makes waiting worthwhile.

Ranch Les Beaux Bisons
Rigaud, Quebec

Tel.: (450) 451-5515
web site: http://www.magma.ca/~jsci/index.html

Huet in Vouvray

I have a friend whose knowledge of wine is astounding and I am privy to his recommendations and musings. In light of the fact that he has a serious full-time job that keeps him very busy and thus doesn't allow him necessarily to organize his thoughts for his own blog (which we would all benefit from), I have taken it upon myself to be his communication vehicle. From time to time, I will post his lessons and thoughts regarding wine. I know you’ll find them as enlightening as I do.

Huet is the absolute top estate in Vouvray and one of the top 5 in Loire.

It was previously run by Gaston Huet, a legendary figure in the region, and this for the longest time. Gaston did not have sons, so he asked his "gendre", Noel Pinguet to manage the estate when he retired. After Gaston's death a couple years ago, Noel could not pay the inheritance tax. This scenario is a big problem for winemakers in France because the tax is calculated from the value of the land and most have to sell off part of it because they don't have the cash flow. And this especially in places like Champagne and Burgundy where an hectare of land can run up to $1 million. Unfortunately, the domaine was sold to the domaine's main American importer, who is a silent investor but has very fortunately left Pinguet run the place.

The domaine has always been run organically but Noel initiated biodynamic cultures in the late 1980s. They produce sweet and dry wines and everything in between. All wines come from 3 sites (Bourg, Mont and Haut Lieu) with a 4th one currently being converted to bio. What is interesting is that in good years, one can buy from the Clos du bourg a demi-sec, a dry and a moelleux and then compare them. The moelleux comes in regular bottling or “1er trie”. The top wine, Cuvee Constance, is only produced in the best years - typically 3 to 5 times a decade.

The reputation of the estate is largely based on two things. First the purity of its wines which are by far the best expression of chenin you can find. Second, the longevity of the wines. For example, a recent tasting at the estate revealed that the '47 was "...just ready to drink" !!! 1947 was the vintage of the century mind you, but the point is well made.

The 2005 wine are currently on the shelves at the SAQ and I would recommend them as this was a very good vintage, the best since 97.

Sauvignon in Burgundy?

When one thinks of white wines from Burgundy, the first thought tends to be of Chardonnay or perhaps of Bourgogne Aligoté. Rarely does one think Sauvignon. However, in a small town in the region of Chablis they make a wine exclusively with Sauvignon Blanc or Sauvignon Gris. It was only in 2003 that St-Bris-le-Vineux was allowed to use the classification of AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée) for its wines. It remains the only place in Burgundy allowed to make wines with this grape varietal. While this one isn’t a weird grape, it’s a popular grape found in a random place and that’s what made me curious to try it.

Since I have a penchant for crisp and refreshing whites, it didn’t take much convincing to taste a Sauvignon-based wine such as this. Rather citrusy and zesty with a slight white pepper finish, I found it extremely delicious. As compared to the other Sauvignon Blancs that I have enjoyed, most of which were from Sancerre and Menetou-Salon in the Loire, the St-Bris I tried was a little bit richer in weight and flavour and less mineral. Not a problem - that means it is even better suited for more complex seafood platters and cheeses (Comté, Emmental and the obvious chèvre).

I brought it to a party where artisanal smoked salmon from New Brunswick was sliced before my eyes and placed on homemade blinis with a yogurt-cucumber-dill tartinade. I was rather pleased with my pairing and have officially decided to add the Sauvignon from St-Bris to my repertoire of wines. Not to mention it scored me some serious points with my French friends who hadn't sample a St-Bris in a very long time and then some general accolades for being original.

One can drink this wine right away or keep it for up to five years in the cellar. However, once you open your first, I highly doubt you’ll be able to resist opening others on a regular basis.

Saint-bris sauvignon Goisot 2005 (SAQ code: 10520819, $19.65)

Wild Mushrooms

I just can't help but talk about mushrooms. I admit it, I might be mildly addicted but I can live with that affliction. This weekend, I had a feast of them - every type I knew and so many I didn't even have a clue about. There wasn't one I didn't like, one I wouldn't try again, one I wouldn't recommend and one I would ever omit from my sauces, stews, omelettes, etc. And where did I indulge, you might ask? At La Table des Jardins Sauvages. I've reviewed this place (click here), and I have mentioned their mushroom tasting menu (click here). Now that I have actually sampled it, I can attest to the fact that it was the greatest $75 I've spent in a very long time.

The good news is that there is still time for you to do the same since they have added a few extra services in November. To give you extra incentive, I have posted a montage of the dishes and the overall experience - you'll find it in the Take Away section (click here).

La Tables des Jardins Sauvages

www.jardinssauvages.com