Neyer Vineyards Tasting Notes

A contribution from John Clerides from Marquis Wine Cellars in Vancouver (www.marquis-wines.com)

Neyers Vineyards:
Bruce Neyers has been the national sales manger for Kermit Lynch for around ten years, now. His travel schedule makes mine look like a family holiday; he is always on the road, if not in France somewhere in the United States. I remember him telling me one of the ways he keeps his wines reasonable, at least by Napa standards, is he is not solely dependent on the winery for income. The wines were initially made by Ehren Jordan long time wine maker at Turley.  Ehren has slowly backed away from the day to day task of being Neyers’ head wine maker and now consults at critical times of the year. Both Bruce and Ehren have worked for Kermit Lynch and spent a lot of time in France. The Neyers wines are California in body, but French in spirit and soul.

2006 Tofanelli Vineyard Zinfandel
Explosive aromatics of bright fruit and cedar shavings. A full bodied wine, but not thick and over extracted.  This wine does an amazing job of hiding it’s ripeness, and displays an elegance that is not generally seen from this grape variety.

2006 High Valley Vineyard Zinfandel
This is in Chiles valley and is farmed by Jay and Pam Hemingway who also own the Green and Red winery. The vineyard is located between1800 and 2000 feet in elevation, and this makes a dramatic difference in the wine produced from this vineyards grapes.  This wine has a more restrained style to it, with dark fruit and spicy notes being the predominant features. 

2006 Pato Zinfandel
The Pato vineyard is in Contra Costa County, just outside the city of San Francisco itself. There are some great old vineyards around here, some of them being 80+ years old.  Unfortunately these beautiful old vineyards have a knack for being ripped up due to urbanization, although this has slowed down thanks to the economy.  Let’s hope that when things get back to normal down here they at least slow down ripping out these great relics, and living pieces of history.   Back to the wine though.  This is a stylish Zin, packed with dense Saskatoon berry     flavours, backed-up by pie spice and anise notes.

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
The vineyards is in Conn Valley, and was planted by famous viticulturalist David Abreu (Wines from his own    winery sell for $500 a bottle). This wine reminded me of a very European styled cabernet sauvignon, subtle and elegant with tight fruit, cedar and currant overtones. I quite liked this wine but if you are expecting a Napa power house this wine is not for you.

2006 'AME' Cabernet Sauvignon
From the same home ranch vineyard that Bruce and his wife own in Conn Valley, these grapes are from the highest part of their vineyards.  The grapes from this section always seemed to have a darker, richer colour so they decided to make a separate bottling for it. It does not disappoint, while most definitely bigger than the regular cabernet bottling it is done so in a thoughtful manner.  A cool climate styled Cabernet, with savoury notes and just the right amount of fruit and acidity.  Lovely stuff – I love mountain wines from Napa valley.  Only 550 or so cases are made of this gem.

L’oxydation dans le vin, défaut ou qualité …?

Une contribution de Fabrice (www.lescavesduforum.com)

Danger, problème ou déviance diront les œnologues !

Plaisir, envoûtant, libérateur diront les amoureux des vins libres !

L’oxydation, voici un mot bien souvent employé à tort et à travers et pourtant quelle importance a ce mot aussi bien dans le langage de la dégustation que dans l’expression du vin et de sa complexité.

Il est souvent compliqué pour des jeunes dégustateurs ou des personnes non habituées à déguster des vins oxydatifs de comprendre la subtilité et la complexité qu’apporte l’oxydation aux vins.

Pour commencer l’oxydation c’est quoi ?

L'oxygène c'est la vie. Le paradoxe c'est que pour le vin, l'oxydation est jugée comme un défaut. Bien entendu tout dépend de l'avancement de cette oxydation. Le mot oxydation n'aura pas le même sens dans le Jura (chez nos amis Pierre Overnoy et Emmanuel Houillon) que chez les « Flying Winemakers » à la mode du moment.

L’oxydation est un phénomène très complexe de réaction chimique, mais en deux mots c’est une perte d'un ou plusieurs électrons par une molécule, parfois accompagnée d'une perte de protons (H+). Ce qui peut se traduire par exemple dans le vin par l’oxydation de l’éthanol CH₃-CH₂-OH. L’éthanol représente la majorité de l’alcool dans le vin.Une partie de l’éthanol devient de l’éthanal CH₃CHO du à l’absorption d’oxygène (ce qu’on appelle l’oxydation) de l’éthanol. L’éthanal est un composé très volatil.

Cette oxydation est aussi à l’origine  du  développement d’une levure qui décompose l'alcool éthylique en éthanal (odeurs de pomme, de noix, et de curry). C’est aussi cela qui est à l'origine du goût de jaune, qui est issu du sotolon, phénomène bien connu dans les vins jaunes du Jura, de Xeres, voir de Madères.

Plus simplement cela se traduit dans la dégustation analytique du vin par une augmentation de l’acidité volatile, ce qui permet aux vins qui ont la matière suffisante, d’exalter des arômes plus complexe. Ces vins procurent ainsi une verticalité aromatique ce qui aide par exemple, beaucoup de grands liquoreux trop riches par leurs matières à extraire les arômes les plus délicats et subtils grâce à cette volatile et ce, même à travers la richesse en sucres qui pourrait autrement créer un phénomène de lourdeur.

L’acidité volatile est au vin ce que les piments sont à la cuisine, un révélateur d’arôme.

L’oxydation donne aussi une dimension plus détendue et une sensation de libération au vin de par sa palette aromatique qui développe des arômes plus complexes et puissants du au phénomène d’estérification (les esters sont des alcools supérieurs à la base des molécules aromatiques) qui se produit par tous ces changements chimiques.

Phénomène aussi important que l’acidité volatile, l’oxydation du vin lui apporte une couleur plus soutenue du fait de la réaction chimique, due au cuivre contenu dans le vin.

Afin de mesurer les bienfaits de l’oxygène sur le vin je ne peux que vous proposer de faire le voyage à travers tous les sens en dégustant un grand vin jaune de Pierre Overnoy ou encore un vin blanc du Casot des Mailloles ou une cuvée Substance de Anselme Selosse en Champagne.

L’oxydation sur des vins vivants les libère et leur permet d’avoir une libre expression, tout comme l’alcool libère la libre pensée des hommes.

Bon voyage au pays de l’imaginaire !

‘White Burgundy 2007’ – Tasting Notes

On April 24^th, a few curious tasters and I wanted to uncover what the 2007 whites from Burgundy were revealing, so we showed up at Les Caves du Forum (www.lescavesduforum.com) and sampled a few under the guidance of Fabrice. Here are my notes.

2007 Bourgogne Blanc, Hautes Côtes de Nuits, Anne Gros

On the nose it is slightly oxidized, with some smoky and freshly churned butter notes that then reveal a chalky nuance. The acidity is mineral and side sweeping. Initially the structure of the wine is not very pronounced, but something holds this wine, almost like a phantom factor effect. Peach pit, cumin, lemon pith. Upon aeration, the wine gains some richness as well as sensuality without being opulent. The finish is sweet and then saline, revealing the terroir in which the grapes are grown.

2007 ‘La Chatelaine’, Bourgogne Vezelay, Domaine de la Cadette

Green notes and honey with a hint of peanut on the nose. This wine is acidic, tart, and herbal, very citric and somewhat overtakes the richness also present. Dried apricot and marmalade notes become more obvious and add opulence. It feels young because there is tension and rigor, but it remains austere and difficult to approach. Toast and sesame notes on the finish. Perhaps too young and unsettled – a few years will tell.

2007 Les Pommards, St-Véran, Barraud

The density on this wine is directly related to the soils in which the grapes are grown. On the nose the clay notes are apparent, intertwined with apple peel. The use of wood becomes more apparent and the wine is a touch alcoholic, emitting powerful tarragon and herbal aromas. In mouth there are hints of orange. The wine is rather saline which tames the richness of the wine, one of it’s most impressive features. The wood notes on the nose are well integrated on the mouth, making this an overall charming albeit viscous wine.

2007 En Bulands, Puilly-Fuissé, Barraud

Interestingly this wine is from the same producer as the previous wine, however on a different appellation, merely 10km apart but with very different soil qualities. On the nose there are fresh asparagus, parsley and clay notes (not in a Sauvignon Blanc sort of way). Citrus notes are also present but with a touch of smoke. In mouth the it is light, the acidity not bracing but long, it leads into the finish and masks the use of wood. A touch alcoholic, this wine is a bit heavy-handed.

2007 Thomas Pico, 1^er Cru Montmain, Chablis, Domaine Pattes Loup

Stewed strawberry and rhubarb that translate to pronounced strawberry notes in mouth. Acidic on the finish, it is also tannic. The finish is almost creamy. While the acidity is very pronounced, it gives in at the end and the wine becomes inviting – a balance of opulence and finesse. Creamy and herbal, this will is somewhat atypical for the appellation and will likely become is more interesting and balanced in time.

2007 Les murgers des dents de chien, 1^er Cru St-Aubin, Hubert Lamy

Gunpower, minerals, seashells, salt, kelp – aromas that hint to the influence soil can have on wine aromas! This ephermeral wine is full of stories. In mouth, it is saline and aromatic with dried fruit, and it reveals a very precise acidity that gives the impression of narrowness. It is tannic and there is a sensation that the wine is like filigree. It is dense, tense, and noble.

2007 Les tremblots, Puligny-Montrachet, Hubert Lamy

Metallic notes intertwine with gunpowder and a touch of orange. It is floral and viscous with minerals. Herbal notes can be found: chervil, and something anise-like. The wine is viscous in mouth as well, almost full of iron. As it aerates in the glass, it takes more room in mouth, its presence widens. The acidity of the wine gives way to opulence, there is elegance in the finish.

2007 Les macherelles, 1^er Cru Chassagne-Montrachet, Hubert Lamy

Notes of orange that are a touch alcoholic and gunpowder are very present but also tamed by some smoked paprika and wood aromas. The dukkah spice mix comes to mind. The nose is very intriguing, almost petrol. In mouth the wine is slightly salty but remarkably balanced on the mid-palate. Green apple aromas settle on the tongue and there is also the richness of fresh butter (Normandy in a glass?). This is a tense but forgiving wine with an exceptional mise en bouche.

2006 Santa Cruz Ridge (because a pirate is always fun)

Notes of vanilla and peach as well as other exotic fruits but there is a very present minerality. The alcohol renders it viscous but the acidity is present. Pastry, custard, herbs in mouth, with lovely defining bitter aromas on the finish. The structure of the wine seems a bit disjointed, and the acidity could be more pronounced to balance out the wine. A wine to age.

* Tasters associated this wine to a Batard-Montrachet or a 2003 Macon that needed to age. A wine that had a lot of power, thus a wine to be enjoyed while eating .

Hendry Ranch Wines

A contribution from John Clerides from Marquis Wine Cellars in Vancouver (www.marquis-wines.com)

The Hendry farm/homestead has been in his family since 1933, a short period of time when compared to European standards, but quite lengthy for California. The Hendry Ranch is located in the southern part of Napa Valley, on the way up to Mt Veeder. This is a cooler climate sight by Napa standards, some 10 degrees cooler than Oakville and 15 degrees cooler than Calistoga in the north.

Hendry’s web site not only understates George and Mike’s sheer brilliance, but also their dedication to the art of crafting high quality wines. George Hendry for example, “divided his time between the vineyard and the design of cyclotrons” according their website. Think about it, when George isn’t doing work in the vineyard, he’s building cyclotrons! That’s intense; George is a seriously smart guy. Mike, who is George’s nephew and since 2001 the vineyard manager there, grew up in Canada (could be why he’s such a likeable chap) and has degrees in physics and engineering. As you can ascertain, this is a smart family, with a keen brain for science, but what makes them really special is their ability to marry science and art, and that’s the angle they take when crafting their wines.

Prior to starting their winery George sold his cabernet grapes to Robert Mondavi. It was these grapes that made up the reserve program and were used for Opus One. With their scientific background they have mapped their entire vineyard and divided into 50 different blocks, (see high res map, http://www.hendrywines.com/vineyard.htm) carefully documenting the growth, yield and grape quality. The result is great wines of uncompromising quality, because making great wine starts in the vineyard.

2007 Pinot Gris – tasted out of Screw Top & cork closure
I tasted the two wines side by side and the result was nothing less than profound. The screw top wine was clean, fresh and vibrant, while the cork finish wine was a bit flatter and sad to say, a bit duller as well. The Hendry Pinot Gris is the standard bearer for this grape in the Napa, and while both bottles were delicious, hats off to the screw top.

2008 Albarino
I love producers who think outside the box, try new things, and experiment with different grape varieties. Although I have not been that impressed with California’s previous attempts at Tempranillo, Sangiovese and Nebbiolo, this Albariño really impressed me. I love Spanish Albariño and this wine delivers all of the qualities I look for. It’s fresh, zippy and full of explosive fruit flavours, with a little bit of classic varietal saline note to it. A real lovely wine to enjoy with fresh seafood.

2007 Unoaked Chardonnay
This is generally how I like my Chardonnay. I prefer this styles of wine in which the fruit is not over-powered by oak. This is like a good, if not great Mâcon. It has a nice leanness to it, yet still displays intense flavours. Very nice indeed.

2005 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay
People think that when a wine says barrel fermented all of it is barrel aged, not the case, this is a non-malolactic wine with just 50% new wood. This Chardonnay has more volume than their unoaked version, and this case the oak is not overwhelming at all. Still, this is a rich, elegant, thoughtful Chardonnay, the way it should be when oak is involved.

2006 Pinot Noir
A surprise for me after the mediocre 2005 vintage, half new French barrels partial whole berry, no racking, and limited maceration. I was quite enamored with this wine, very well crafted, the Pommard clone gives the wine some backbone, a beautiful lift of fruit, with some rustic earth notes, very smooth and well integrated, well crafted, very pleasing and pleasurable.

2006 Block 7&22 Zinfandel
One note before I go on about the wine. Zinfandel as a grape usually has a muted colour, yet many of the Zinfandels on the market are quite dark in colour. This is because many producers blend in some Petite Sirah to give the wine some extra colour.
Muted black in colour, made with 100% Zinfandel, an earthy note to the wine with lifted berry fruit aromas, spicy notes – anise, pepper etc, rich but not over powering even with 15.6% alcohol.

2005 Block 5 Zinfandel
This block is planted to a clonal selection from the Brandlin vineyard on Mount Veeder. This wine is darker, deeper and more profound than the aforementioned wine, a big style of zin but again crafted in a thoughtful drinkable style – it is not big for the sake of being big. Excellent and enjoyable now, thiswill age nicely.

2006 Primitivio
This is a B-I-G wine, no lack of anythinghere.You like flavour and intensity? Here you are, the wine for you.The wine clocks in at 16.3% alcohol, and would work well with chocolate. A big, brooding wine with deep and intense flavour, not an everyday drinker, but a great little treat none the less.

2005 Hendry Red Wine
(30% Petit Verdot, 26% Malbec, 14% Cabernet Franc, 14% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon)
Note the blend, a Bordeaux blend, yes, but going the opposite way from usual. This is a very interesting (and delicious) take on a time tested old formula. For me this was my favourite of the lot, but that is just me speaking. Earthy, intense, smooth, rich with great density of fruit, but not overpowering at all. This is lovely stuff here folks, and a great California take on a Bordeaux blend.

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
The star of the line-up here, I mean after all, we are in Napa here so eventually we’d have to get to some killer Cabernets. Deeply coloured, with an intense nose and layers and layers of fruit to it. This wine has a freshness to it I find almost invigorating it’s big and dense, sure, but very complex and well rounded.A brilliant example of Cabernet Sauvignon, and a world class wine.

A Bordeaux Experiement: Bottle 1

This year I started an eight year experiment. Yes, I am a passionate PhD candidate, but this test has nothing to do with marketing. It is all about wine.

One of the first things one learns about wine is that it requires some aging. How much will depend on the grape, the producer, the vinifcation, etc. But I’ve always wanted to experience the difference that age makes. So being a super nerd, I took this challenge on in the only way I know how. I devised a study.

In December 2007 I purchased 4 bottles of the 2005 Chateau Barateau, a cru bourgeois from the Medoc. The SAQ counsellors advised me that this was a fairly consistent producer and that the wine was a fair representation of the place and the vintage. And at $25.95 each, I felt that this was a decent quality-price-student budget bottle. I keep these bottles in my cellar at an even temperature and at the bottom so they don’t get jostled. I am trying to be as strict as possible.

The methodology is as follows: every two years, I will open a bottle and take detailed notes, in order to attempt to unravel the aging process. Yes, yes, I know that it’s not the perfect design, but it isn’t a terrible idea either. And it should be fun nonetheless. And without further ado, below are my tasting notes of the first bottle. It was not carafed because this accelerates aging and the purpose of the experiment is to witness real-time evolution and not artificially induce it. Let the research begin...

Colour

- deep plum, not particularly dense, reflects a bit

Nose (by layer as time went by)

- dried cassis, brine, oak without the vanilla, some minerality

- cedar, cigar box

- smells delicate for a Bordeaux

Mouth (by sample, as time went by)

- very tight and present tannins and it lacks acidity, almost flavourless

- smokiness and meatiness and then wood are more obvious, especially on the finish

- the fruit barely appears and the finish is almost astringent

Overall consensus – This wine requires cellaring because the fruit is overwhelmed by the presence of wood. It is almost unapproachable in its youth.

Stay tuned for the next bottle in 2010...