Food With A Point

These days I’m obsessed with trying new breads and sometimes even making them. I’ve been having a really big penchant for dense nutritious breads specifically and have even ventured as far as making Swedish matbrot with cumin and caraway seeds. So when I passed by the Wawel Polish Bakery counter at the Jean-Talon market and noticed loaves of their coriander rye bread, it wasn’t even a question.

This heavy, hearty loaf tastes like a fine rye bread should but with a refreshing twist. The coriander gives a somewhat lemony nuance but then there is a hit of orange at the finish. I don’t know if this is because there is some orange zest in the batter but it’s delightful. I would liken it in taste to a Hoegaarden whitbier.

Hard to say what I would put on it other than butter or something neutral like a cream cheese or a light fresh goat’s cheese. For now, I’m really enjoying it as is, toasted or not, because it’s different and satisfying and filling all at once. And sometimes that’s just good enough, no embellishments required.

Wawel has numerous outlets, check their web site for details: http://www.wawelpatisserie.com/  

This one definitely goes under discovery and I would venture to add a touch of odd to this experience. A few days ago, on my way back from a scenic tour of Hawksbury (…), I finally had a chance to make a stop at Jacques Seguin’s bison farm.

I like game and wild meats and his is the epitome of this. His bisons are exclusively fed grass – not a single dose of grain ever makes it in their pastures or troughs. Grass-fed cattle is virtually impossible to find in Canada, mostly because it is so expensive. A regular cow takes approximately 12 months, from the time it’s born, to be ready for slaughter. In contrast, these bison take an average of fours years – and it’s not just because they are a larger animal. Feeding cattle grass means they take their time naturally to grow and do so in a healthy fashion. The results can be tasted in addition to being evident in the quality of the meat itself. This ground bison meat, which we made unbelievable burgers with later than evening, has less than 1% fat and is 24% protein.

Like many organic farmers, Seguin is deeply committed to his pursuit and willingly discusses his passion. Visitors are asked to call ahead and reservations for meat can be made. The store (his house) is not open at all time hence why an appointment is preferred. All products are vacuum packed and frozen. And if you are looking to buy a filet mignon roast, wait your turn, the next available one is in 2010… Looks like others also realized that the concept of grassfed makes waiting worthwhile.

Ranch Les Beaux Bisons
Rigaud, Quebec

Tel.: (450) 451-5515
web site: http://www.magma.ca/~jsci/index.html

There are advantages to knowing people behind the counters of food stores. I strongly encourage you to get to know them, as they will get to know you and your tastes as well. This inevitably means that when something interesting comes in, that might be right up your alley, they tend to put some aside or ensure that you are aware. Such was the case with me and the recently arrived Jamon Iberico de Recebo at the Fromagerie Atwater.

The story behind this air-cured ham that is similar to Serrano but a huge cut above, is that the pata negra pigs that it hails from are left to roam free and treated with the utmost respect. Once they have matured, they are weighed and if not up to par, feed extra acorns and corn to finish them off. The result is a charcuterie product that may make you weep for a brief moment.

The meat is much deeper in colour yet the fat is much whiter than Serrano. A thin slice on your tongue will almost melt away and reveal flavours that are a balance of salty, fatty, and fragrant earthy spices like rosemary and bitter herbs with a final touch of sweetness. I’ve never had anything comparable.

This very special product is not for oblivious consumption or frivolous meals – it requires respect and attention. Furthermore, at almost $27.00/100grams, one wants to be sure to enjoy the experience. But I know for a fact and a mortgage payment it’s worth every penny.

Another winner from the folks at Sunsource. These roasted almonds are coated in lemon juice and then a generous sprinkle of coarse sea salt. The ultimate 4pm snack, especially when hosting people at a BBQ let’s say, they prep the palate for the subsequent meal and create just enough thirst for a sparkling crisp white, a nice sherry or a refreshing beer. As always, these homespun creations are made with the utmost care and watched over from start to finish by the lovely family that runs this fabulous nut and dried fruit store. See my posts on their Sesame-Soya Almonds (click here) and the Sun-dried Iranian Figs (click here).

I would have taken a picture, but I don’t know what happened, they just disappeared…

Sunsource

www.sunsource.ca

4822 Sherbrooke W. ; 514.487.7776 or

90 Laurier W. ; 514.277.4444

Last month at the Expo Manger Santé (click here), I sampled a bread that I immediately purchased. Actually, it wasn’t really a bread but more of a “galette” – an almost unleavened bread that has a loaf like feel albeit being only an inch or so high. The Tourte Grains Bio from Première Moisson is dense with seeds and sprouted grains. For those who like whole grains and organic bakery goods, this is right up you alley. Friends I have gotten addicted to this product have referred to it as bird bread and I think it’s fitting.

One of my friends makes her significant other very happy by making him sandwiches of this bread with prosciutto, goat cheese, cherry tomatoes, arugula and basil leaves. I enjoy mine in the morning with some roasted almond butter. Truth be told, I would eat this bread all the time and in any way.

The only constraint is that it is not available at all Première Moisson outlet. I have seen it as a regular product at the Jean-Talon Market location as well as on Masson street. However, they have advised me that one can call any outlet and request this product 48 hours before desired pick up time and it will be made by the resident baker.

Tourte Grains Bio from Première Moisson $3.95

We’ve all become accustomed to seeing veal cheeks on restaurant menus – they are the new cut of meat that chefs love to braise. Yet few people are as familiar with halibut cheeks. And for now, that may be a good thing because that means there are more for me…

Halibut cheeks are exactly that – the cheeks of halibut, that big ocean fish otherwise known as “the hippo of the sea”. A firm white fleshed variety, halibut is a personal favourite that I particularly like roasted or cooked in sauces with Mediterranean seasonings like tomatoes and pine nuts. But halibut cheeks are actually quite tender, soft pieces that need to be treated with care and a light exposure to heat. About the size of big scallops, they should be cooked in the exact same way – pan seared just enough to give them a golden crust on the exterior, without compromising the meltingly soft interior. Finish with a little bit of fleur de sel and a drizzle of lemon juice and olive oil and you are set for a very tasty meal.

These are seasonal and they’ve just started to make their way to the market. I find mine at the Poissonnerie Atwater.

The other night I had a dinner party. As part of the appetizers, I wanted to serve roasted figs stuffed with Serrano ham and cheese. Following in the Spanish theme, I would have thought of something like Mahon for the cheese– but to be honest, I find Mahon rather boring. So I asked Raymond at the Fromagerie Atwater to guide me. Telling him that I was placing the figs under the broiler in order to crisp up the Serrano and to melt the cheese, he responded with: Murcia al vino.

This is a DOP ( Denominación de Origen Protegida or a regulated production according to strict guidelines, like DOC in Italy or AOC in France) 100% goat’s milk cheese from the Murciano-Granadina breed and made in Southeastern Spain. It is a firm but creamy cheese that melts beautifully. With a rich red/purple-hued exterior but with an off-white interior, this cheese gets its colours because the wheels are bathed in red wine. Taste-wise, it doesn’t have a strong flavour, it’s mild and soft, with a bit of acidity and a touch of salt but nothing overpowering and everything in balance. It is a perfect foil to the sweet of the figs and the salty of the Serrano.

Considering the overwhelming number of positive comments regarding the figs, I will certainly repurchase this cheese and reproduce this recipe as well as add to it my cheese platters. It also makes/made a very good Croque-Monsieur with Serrano.

And just in case your cheese monger isn’t fluent in Spanish, this cheese is also referred to as “The Drunken Goat”.

Oh, it’s the end of the semester and anything that sweetens the load and results in a few moments of hedonic escapism is more than welcome. It would be a very big fib to say that I don’t indulge more often than just during the last few weeks of school, but using this time of year is one heck of an excuse!

Again from the Chocolaterie Suisse on Crescent St., you will find another Swiss delight – an Original Branche. This is a creamy hazelnut flavoured milk chocolate stick speckled with finely ground hazelnuts, hence the name - it resembles a branch. While plain in appearance, it packs an amazing dose of happy. It’s rich, sumptuous, easy to carry, wrapped in visually appealing foil and comes in two sizes – the general format and the mega-emergency-last-minute-term-paper format.

I strongly encourage you to find solace in this import and would appreciate the company while indulging. Yes, that will be me in front of you at the cash, paying for my weekly, uh, monthly stash…

They cost a few bucks and are more satisfying than a latte, and the sugar rush is way better.

Chocolaterie Suisse - 2080 Crescent

www.chocolateriesuisse.com ; 514.499.0626

These are French Breakfast radishes. I’m not quite sure what makes them so much more French than the typical radishes I’ve eaten, or why I would eat them for breakfast, but they're tasty and that’s really all that matters. Just as a side note, there is no actual French custom of eating radishes for breakfast…

The French Breakfast radish is a little milder than the Easter egg or globe varieties that we are more accustomed to seeing at the market. This one has a little less of a bite – making it great in dishes when you want some heat but not an explosion.

Other than eating them raw, which the French do with sweet butter and salt (which I can confirm is a lovely way to enjoy them), you can sauté, roast and braise these and other radishes. They are particularly good when paired with salmon and lemon. Think a spring vegetable, including radishes, pot au feu with salmon… And remember that because they can have strong flavour, they can be paired with strong flavours. If you roast them, try with shavings of Ossau Iraty (a strong Basque sheep milk cheese) or pair them with cilantro in chicken soup.

They also don’t always make an appearance at the market, so catch them while you can. I found mine at Atwater market.

My friend Danielle is into bees and she knows her honey like nobody’s business. So obviously when I was recently in the market to replenish my stock, I sought out her advice. So valuable was her guidance that I felt the desire to pass it on. Here are her words of wisdom on one of nature’s most amazing products.

First of all, make sure that you are buying honey from a local producer, preferably a small producer. That ensures that the honey is actually local because often Canadian honey is mixed with honey from China and Argentina, which can contain antibiotics and sugar.

Honey is classified by the types of nectar collected from the flowers that are in bloom. Not all flowers are in bloom at the same time thus why there are different flavours of honey and why most often honey will be classified by season and color.

• Spring honey (dandelion and linden flowers) is the clearest honey in appearance and also the most delicate in taste.
• Summer honey (clover, alfalfa) is also clear although slightly darker than the spring honey. It is also the most common because summer is when the most amount of flowers are in bloom and production peaks.
• Autumn honey (Golden Rod) is darker in colour and flavour.

There are specific types of honey that exhibit more distinct flavours. This feature should be taken into account when using them in sweet and savoury recipes. Here are some that are made in Quebec:  

• Buckwheat honey is the darkest and has the strongest taste – like really strong beer. Use sparingly.
• Raspberry and blueberry honeys are sweeter and are delicious on yogurt and pancakes.
• Mint honey is slightly herbal and wonderful in glazes for white meat.

For those who were wondering, creamed honey is just summer honey whipped like cream into butter. It's just aerated!

And finally, honey never goes bad. It may crystallize but this is entirely normal. If you want it liquefy it, just heat it gently in a hot water bath or in microwave. To ensure the best taste, always keep honey at room temperature.