A Franc Revelation

Last week, I had a Cabernet Franc-based wine that I liked. This is a huge deal. In the past, I have returned wines to the SAQ that were of this varietal because I thought they were corked they were so much not to my liking. After Jos (my friendly advisor) delicately told me that the offensive bottle was indeed a great expression of this grape from the Loire, we had no choice but to conclude that I did not have an affinity for Cabernet Franc and all future recommendations would veer away from this type. Since that seminal moment, I experienced many other instances when I was able to confirm my distaste… until this weekend.

Pictured here (at the Biodynamic Conference in February 2008) is Pierre Breton, the man who makes the Cabernet Franc wine that I not only enjoyed but called the friend who flipped me the bottle within the 24 hours post consumption to ask him how to purchase many, many more. Said friend was so happy, I think I heard him purring on the other end of the line… Yes Martin, you did it, you converted another.

Back to M Breton. This man and his lovely wife Catherine make entirely organic, biodynamic wines with very if any sulphites. Located in Bourgeuil in the Loire, these two have a deep love for what they do and the commitment to the preservation of purity in the oenological arts – and you can taste it.

The wine I sampled was the 2005 Trinch! It’s 100% Cabernet Franc and a private import. And here is how my revelation unfolded. Opened and pour, it was sceptically scrutinized.

First off, what an amazing colour – I think I was mesmerized for a good 5 minutes. On the nose, unmistakable Cab Franc but it also had this fresh, damp, mineral aspect that was rather alluring. I was trying to figure out what else there was but I knew there was some fruit but not cooked fruit – almost like fresh fruit. The taste confirmed it for me –raspberry with some fresh tobacco smokiness and a smooth finish that surprised me because of the present but focused tannins. The acidity of the wine was what sold me in the end.

I was doubtful was I when I opened the bottle, amazed when I drank the wine and sad when the bottle was empty. Honestly, there are few moments when I can have such changes in perspective and I absolutely adore them. And to think that if I hadn’t been willing to try another Cabernet Franc, just in case this one was good, I would have missed this phenomenal incident. And that would have been a shame…