Anselme Selosse, le bâtisseur de cathédrales

Une contribution du 'Crétois'...

Il est des rencontres qui marquent de jalons solidement plantés le parcours initiatique d’un amoureux du vin. Ces dégustations avec des vignerons pour lesquels on aimerait changer les règles de l’orthographe, afin d’écrire ce mot magique avec un v majuscule, nous envoient aux frontières de continents inexplorés.

Je souhaiterais citer trois géants de la viticulture française : Pierre Overnoy, Alain Labet et Anselme Selosse. Pierre, Monsieur Overnoy, explique la qualité de ses vins par le hasard et la nécessité. N’ayant pas de charge de famille, il a pu contrairement à d’autres, s’attacher à la qualité du vin et non à sa rentabilité. Modestie de cet homme d’exception, dont la bonté et la grandeur d’âme émanent de ses propos.

Dans la même région, à distance de Pupillin, un pédagogue-né exerce son art à Rotalier. Alain Labet, en décrivant les caractéristiques de ses parcelles de chardonnay (Les Varrons, La Beaumette, En Chalasse, La Bardette, Le Montceau) dans le même temps que la dégustation de ses vins, rend limpide les différences organoleptiques dues au terroir.

Anselme Selosse enfin, livre dans ses vins, puisqu’il faut bien appeler le champagne un vin, la quintessence de sa pensée. Mais en tant qu’amateur, j’ai du mal à relier son discours au résultat que l’on trouve dans le verre, à comprendre comment, d’une vigne enchâssée dans un terroir calcaire, surgit la magie d’un vin unique, ou plus exactement de vins, chacun unique. Leur origine, Avize, Oger et Cramant[1], avant l’apparition de la cuvée Contraste, ne permet pas d’interpréter la transmutation réalisée par l’alchimiste Anselme. Avec le maître Anselme, on entre en religion, avec ses mystères, au sens antique de culte religieux secret auquel n’étaient admis que ses initiés. Et effectivement, on parle de ses disciples, Jérôme Prévost, Olivier Collin ou encore Alexandre Chartogne – Jean, Pierre, Paul et les autres – prosélytes œuvrant sur de moins nobles terroirs.

Le 19 mars 2004, j’eus le privilège d’aller communier chez Anselme Selosse, en compagnie d’El Degustator et du chirurgien des légumes. Communion plus agréable que celle vécue maintes fois durant sa jeunesse par El Degustator qui, aujourd’hui, préfère mettre en bouche une VO plutôt que du pain azyme ! Lors de la dégustation de la cuvée Substance, j’eus l’impression d’une cathédrale, avec une base large et solide et une verticalité infinie. Avec justesse et c’est ce que je ressentais aussi, Anselme ajouta qu’à la surface de cette structure verticale se déclenchaient de multiples petites explosions à tous les étages.

Alors, le dégustateur finit par croire que ces vins d’exception relèvent d’une logique divine. Et comme dans ce texte tout se rapporte au domaine religieux, la seule conclusion possible est la suivante : Anselme Selosse est un bâtisseur de cathédrales, oui, mais dans le style gothique flamboyant.

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[1] Petit moyen mnémotechnique : AOC

Le violoniste de Vouvray

Une contribution de Fabrice (www.lescavesduforum.com)

"Les vins de Foreau? C’e sont des vins qui sont comme le personnage un petit peu – hyper droits, pas très flexibles, puristes et qui ne laissent pas de place à la médiocrité, quoi. Il est hyper exigeant avec les gens, avec lui-même et avec ses vins, qui ressortent droits, précis, tendus, vifs, c’est des vins de violoniste, ils demandent le même travaille et la même rigueur. Que se soit en sec, demi-sec, ou moelleux, on a toujours la précision verticale, tendue – à chaque fois il le dit tout le temps ‘colonne vertébrale’. Ça je suis content car c’est quelque chose que je dis souvent en dégustation, colonne vertébrale. Tout est basé sur la colonne vertébrale acide, minérale, et il peaufine autour avec ses secs, demi-secs et moelleux. Oui, c’est ça les vins de Foreau."

 

 Philippe Foreau

- Viticulteur à Vouvray en Loire

- Propriétaire du Clos Naudin depuis 1983, un domaine commencé dans les environs de 1919 par son Grand-Père Armand

- 12 hectares

- 100% chenin blanc en sec, demi-sec, moelleux, et pétillants

- Grand épicurien et amateur d'homard, qui s'accorde exceptionnellement bien avec les grands chenins

A Franc Revelation

Last week, I had a Cabernet Franc-based wine that I liked. This is a huge deal. In the past, I have returned wines to the SAQ that were of this varietal because I thought they were corked they were so much not to my liking. After Jos (my friendly advisor) delicately told me that the offensive bottle was indeed a great expression of this grape from the Loire, we had no choice but to conclude that I did not have an affinity for Cabernet Franc and all future recommendations would veer away from this type. Since that seminal moment, I experienced many other instances when I was able to confirm my distaste… until this weekend.

Pictured here (at the Biodynamic Conference in February 2008) is Pierre Breton, the man who makes the Cabernet Franc wine that I not only enjoyed but called the friend who flipped me the bottle within the 24 hours post consumption to ask him how to purchase many, many more. Said friend was so happy, I think I heard him purring on the other end of the line… Yes Martin, you did it, you converted another.

Back to M Breton. This man and his lovely wife Catherine make entirely organic, biodynamic wines with very if any sulphites. Located in Bourgeuil in the Loire, these two have a deep love for what they do and the commitment to the preservation of purity in the oenological arts – and you can taste it.

The wine I sampled was the 2005 Trinch! It’s 100% Cabernet Franc and a private import. And here is how my revelation unfolded. Opened and pour, it was sceptically scrutinized.

First off, what an amazing colour – I think I was mesmerized for a good 5 minutes. On the nose, unmistakable Cab Franc but it also had this fresh, damp, mineral aspect that was rather alluring. I was trying to figure out what else there was but I knew there was some fruit but not cooked fruit – almost like fresh fruit. The taste confirmed it for me –raspberry with some fresh tobacco smokiness and a smooth finish that surprised me because of the present but focused tannins. The acidity of the wine was what sold me in the end.

I was doubtful was I when I opened the bottle, amazed when I drank the wine and sad when the bottle was empty. Honestly, there are few moments when I can have such changes in perspective and I absolutely adore them. And to think that if I hadn’t been willing to try another Cabernet Franc, just in case this one was good, I would have missed this phenomenal incident. And that would have been a shame…

Meeting Wine Makers

Terroir is defined as: a group of vineyards (or even vines) from the same region, belonging to a specific appellation, and sharing the same type of soil, weather conditions, grapes and wine making savoir-faire, which contribute to give its specific personality to the wine.*

For me, the key words in this definition to retain are wine making savoir-faire (know-how) and personality. These in my opinion are the two most difficult to define in concrete ways and the ones that more often than not rest in the hands of the winemaker(s). There are the people behind wines and for lack of a better word, their “touch” is what makes wines unique.

At the Montreal Wine and Spirits Show and the related events, I had the privilege of meeting some of the people who's influence figures in my wine glass. It was a pleasure to meet them and see how their verbally expressed philosophies transferred to the tastes and textures of their wines. I compiled a small montage of my experience and invite you to download it from my Take Away section: Wine_Spirits_Shows.pdf.

* http://www.terroir-france.com/ , which by the way, is a great web site for basic information about French wines.

Cosmoculture: Domaine Viret

A few days ago I attended a wine fair and conference that focused on biodynamic wines. The biodynamic movement, briefly summarized, is one that incorporates many of the principles of organic agriculture (no pesticides or GMO’s) and focuses on the normal cycle of the earth all while considering the link between the ecological, kinetic and spiritual components of nature. This means for example that in hot climates, “cool” fertilizers are used in order to create a more balanced growing environment. Developed by Steiner in the early 1900’s, its modern day spokesperson is Frenchman Nicolas Joly.

Cosmoculture is biodynamic wine with an extra dose of energy. Those who practice it use means, such as large stones and water sources, to capture the natural energy of the cosmos and direct it in a way that it flows to the ground and has a positive impact on the vinification process. Currently, the bastions of this type of winemaking can be found at Domain Viret, in the Cotes du Rhône in France. And it would be a lie to say that I wasn’t a little bit skeptical when I went to a tasting of three wines from the Domaine at Pullman (click here).

Three glasses, three bottles, and a winemaker stand before me. Philippe Viret (pictured) is the son of the founders of the Domaine Viret and an oenologist. A young gentleman with a deep sense of calm about him, he begins to tell the story of cosmoculture and how it is expressed in his vineyards. Before even tasting anything, he begins our conversation by insightful commentary. He points out that it’s interesting how we have moved from a society that had nature and animals as central parts of all experiences in life to one where we are almost alienated from them. Cosmoculture is essentially a move back to incorporating the energy that comes from a holistic environment that includes all these components. Man is part of the terroir and rather than seeing himself as having control over it he should see himself as the conductor of the orchestra that is nature. As such, the quality and respect for each "section" is essential to the production of any symphony.

The first step in cosmoculture is to clean the ground and remove many years worth of “bétisses” as he calls them. A survey of the land, uncovering and utilizing water sources and installing antennae in the form of menhirs, allows for energy to be properly directed on the property. He chuckles and clarifies “I know it must be hard to listen to me speak about energy in wine without thinking of the alcohol, but I hope that you know what I mean”. After three years, the yields begin to show a different character. The grapes are more resistant, the earth is looser and the worms make a much anticipated return. Once the berries are picked, strict norms are applied to the vinification process: no sulfur, no additional fermentations, only natural indigenous yeasts and at least two years in the cellar.

The resulting product is a variety of wines made from traditional grape varieties found in the Southern Rhône Valley. And how do they taste?

Phenomenal. Honest. Fresh. Balanced. Whereas most wines from this region are characterized by jam-like, cooked berry features, we could only summarize these as fresh summer fruit.

Renaissance 2005 : A blend of Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah is aged in concrete and is wonderfully mineral. Medium tannins give way to a menthol and blackberry seed persistence. Such a depth of flavour with a smoky finish.

Maréotis 2005 : A 60/40 blend of Grenache and Syrah, this wine is finished in Burgundian barrels that will soon be replaced by terra cotta barrels. More acidic than Renaissance, it had a citrus peel (lime?) start that the tannins lead to wood nuances – but a real wood flavour, not the vanilla components typically associated to this type ageing process.

Colonnades 2004 : This one spends 30 months in barrels because the natural yeasts require it. It’s 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvedre and made with Grenache vines that are almost 100 years old. An intense yet surprisingly crisp nose yields to a spicy heat and warmth in mouth. The intense fruit flavours give way to an herbal, almost olive nuance finishing with plum notes. Heartier tannins remain balanced making this wine highly quaffable and almost light – shocking for a wine at 16.8% alcohol!

Currently unavailable at the SAQ, these wines, should you come across them, should be purchased in large quantities. While I don’t know that I would apply the principles of cosmoculture to my garden (even if I had one), I definitely plan to apply them in my wine cellar…

www.domaine-viret.com